'Bigger than Vidal Sassoon, loved by Rod Stewart' - the man who invented modern hairdressing

Ewan GawneNorth West
News imageANL/Shutterstock Hairdresser Pierre Alexandre styling the hair of model Lesley Palmer on a photo shootANL/Shutterstock
Pierre Alexandre's clients included David Bowie, Take That and Lulu

"It was the accent, the flair, just how flamboyant he was, and that blonde, floating hair."

Swiss-born British hairdresser Pierre Alexandre started his career in a small salon in Manchester and went onto become a household name throughout the 1970s and 80s, loved by celebrities.

David Bowie, Rod Stewart, Take That, Lulu were among the customers of the man described as a "hairdressing icon" whose innovation and creativity with scissors surpassed that of even Vidal Sassoon and helped shape modern hairdressing.

Alexandre, successfully grew his brand to an international brand and is credited with pioneering unisex salons and foils, died earlier this week at the age of 86.

News imageGetty Images Sharon Ramadhin having her hair done by Pierre Alexandre. 7th December 1972. Getty Images
The Swiss-born hairdresser first moved to England in 1960

The softened bob, the halo haircut, Rod Stewart's signature spiky haircut, multi-tonal hair colouring, are all understood to be Alexandre creations, invented during a career that included collaborations with Wella, GQ, Vogue and Elle.

His family summed up his approach in their tribute: "Creativity was not just something he did; it was how he lived and how he connected with the world.

It was not just his techniques, but his business management and cult of celebrity that saw him set the trend for 'rock star hairdresser'.

Eddie Renda, Alexandre's business partner in Manchester, said he was "the most high profile hairdresser in the world at one point".

"I don't believe there's another hairdresser, not even, Vidal Sassoon, that did what Pierre did," he added.

News imageFamily photograph A black and white image showing several men in suits standing above women in rollers who are sat in chairs having their hair done in an ornate room filled with grand furniture. Family photograph
Alexandre began learning how to cut hair during an apprenticeship in Basel

Born in Basel in 1939, the hairdresser, who was given the name Peter Johann Franz Walser when he was born, began to learn his craft as an apprentice working in the ornately decorated salons at the age of 15.

His move to Britain came in 1960, and as with many European hairdressers of the era, he adopted the name Pierre Alexandre to suit the preferences of customers.

The new identity was cemented in 1965 when he formally established the brand and his first salon in St Ann's Square in Manchester.

Dusty Springfield, Omar Sharif, Gerry Marsden and members of the Coronation Street cast were among the stars who climbed two flights of stairs to get their haircuts in the Regency-style rooms above the Jewsbury & Wilson fashion store.

Lulu was the public face of a second salon, Romeo and Juliet, which opened in 1968 on King Street.

Coca-Cola was offered to patrons, contemporary music was played, and both men and women were welcome in what was a precursor to the unisex salon.

News imageANL/Shutterstock Hairdresser and salon owner Pierre Alexandre in his penthouse on the 21st floor of St Andrews House, Manchester.ANL/Shutterstock
He lived in homes in Rusholme and Didsbury, as well as a penthouse on the 21st floor of St Andrews House

Away from the business, his family said his "true calling was teaching", and in 1973, the Pierre Alexandre School of Hairdressing opened on King Street West, Manchester.

Manchester hairdresser Nicky Oliver started working with Alexandre after watching him at a seminar in Cheetham Hill in 1978, and was struck by "how flamboyant he was, how professional".

The Bradford-born stylist had wanted to leave his hometown because he "knew there was more to hairdressing" and after seeing Alexandre at work, he decided "I'm gonna work for him".

Oliver moved to Manchester in 1980 and started working at salon in St Anne's Square.

"He asked me to cut his hair n the first day, and after that we built a strong relationship.

"I am a creative person and I think he saw that in me, he took me under his wing really.

"He taught me basically everything I know, and he helped me build my own career."

News imageFamily photograph A black and white image shows Pierre Alexandre, leaning on his knee with a cigarette in his hands, is wearing black glasses and a suit with dicky bow. He is standing in front of a crowd of people outside of a shop bearing the words 'Pierre Alexandre International'Family photograph
The brand went international with a fashion boutique in Paris

The brand later expanded into London, with clients including David Bowie and Rod Stewart, and in 1969, Alexandre went international with a boutique in Paris that sold handbags, jewellery, wigs, and hair 'falls', an early form of hair extension

In the early 1980s, he opened Studio 17, a film and photography studio at North Audley Street, London, and the first client was Grace Coddington, then editor of Vogue UK.

It hosted shoots for Vogue UK, Vogue Italy, Condé Nast, and even casting for several James Bond films.

Regular visitors included Princess Diana, Prince Philip, Grace Jones, Tina Turner, Spandau Ballet, and Frankie Goes to Hollywood.

In the later 1980s and 1990s, he then branched out into television in the US and Canada, became an image consultant for 20th Century Fox.

His family in Switzerland said they "received countless messages from around the world" from those expressing condolences.

"Again and again, we hear the same truth: Pierre had a rare golden touch. He genuinely wanted others to succeed, and nothing made him happier than seeing people grow because of his guidance."

News imageFamily photograph Pierre Alexandre smiles for the camera. He is wearing an orange t-shirt, has blue eyes and cropped silver hair. Family photograph
Pierre Alexandre died at the age of 86 after retiring to Spain, his family said.

For a man with such a high-profile, Alexandre's legacy has lived on in the memories of those he taught, worked with, and in the iconic cuts he created, more so than in the public consciousness.

Oliver told the BBC that his mentor had missed on a deal to produce his own line of hair products, at a time when John Frieda and Vidal Sassoon were launching their own brands.

He said this meant he had not become a household name like many of his contemporaries.

But his name has definitely endured among the barbers of Greater Manchester, like Michael Peckett, a retired hairdresser who used to work on Ashley Road in Hale, who said Alexandre had "always been at the forefront of hairdressing names in Manchester".

"He was an icon and a true example of imagination and talent in Manchester hairdressing".

Simon Stuart, business owner of HAER Collective in Horwich, said he was "a massive influence to me and so many of the great people I have had the pleasure to work with".

"A fantastic professional and inspiration."

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