How Paris got a taste for second-hand style from Africa

Ijeoma NdukweLomé and Paris
News imageAlexandre Bancharel Client modelling a Marche Noir vintage dressAlexandre Bancharel
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Unloved cast-offs sent to Togo's markets by charity shops in Europe are given a second life by a canny vintage dealer in Paris.

"They're sending them to Africa and most of it we don't need here - like coats and furs. I select it with my guys, send it back to Europe and we sell it," says Amah Ayivi.

Much of it is unsold stock of charity shop donations, costing less than $1 (£0.81) each.

"Mostly what I want, people don't buy," says Mr Ayivi.

Yet some pieces will go on to sell for as much as 200 euros ($220; £178) at his Marché Noir concept store in the French capital.

News imageAmah Ayivi Amah Ayivi wearing Marche Noir on streets of Paris with friendsAmah Ayivi
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Most items are sourced from Grand Marché de Hedzranawoe, a major hub for the trade in used clothing in Togo's capital, Lomé.

Mr Ayivi, who has lived in France since the age of 12, spent his early years in Togo, where he returns several times a year to buy stock.

He says he ships a staggering four tonnes of clothing back to Europe each time.

News imageAndrew Esiebo Amah walking through Hezranawoe MarketAndrew Esiebo
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News imageAndrew Esiebo Amah at work in Hedzranawoe Market in LomeAndrew Esiebo
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News imageAndrew Esiebo Amah selecting scarves at Hedzranawoe MarketAndrew Esiebo
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"On the floor you always find treasures," says Mr Ayivi.

"The garment I'm buying mostly is the blue worker jacket because it's something that you can wear all the time."

News imageIjeoma Ndukwe Amah Ayivi selects a blue worker jacket.Ijeoma Ndukwe
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News imageAndrew Esiebo Amah Ayivi inspects rows of blue worker jackets.Andrew Esiebo
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News imageAndrew Esiebo A tailor customises the salvaged clothing.Andrew Esiebo
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Items are cleaned, restored and sometimes customised before they go on sale in Paris.

Customers say they like the "unique" clothes and "global outlook", says Mr Ayivi.

"We try with style not to educate, but to show people what you can do with what you have.

"Give it to me and I'll show you how to wear it without buying another one."

News imageAndrew Esiebo Amah styling a client in a vintage blue worker jacketAndrew Esiebo
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News imageAndrew Esiebo Amah styling a client in ParisAndrew Esiebo
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Consumers are increasingly asking about the sustainability of the fashion industry - which experts say is the second-biggest polluter of water globally.

Perhaps Mr Ayivi's concept of repackaging African chic from European cast-offs is one antidote for fast fashion.

News imageAndrew Esiebo Clothes are seen on the rails of the Marche Noir shop in Paris.Andrew Esiebo
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News imageAndrew Esiebo A customer makes a purchase at the till in Marche Noir.Andrew Esiebo
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Images courtesy of Alexandre Bancharel, Amah Ayivi, Andrew Esiebo and Ijeoma Ndukwe.