Shaping
In sewing and fashion design, a Shapes that, when cut from fabric and then sewn together, become a 3D textile product. is the template from which the parts of a garment are cut from. They are usually made of paper, but can also be made from paperboard or cardboard.
Forming
When textile material is transformed from its stock form, usually sheets from a roll, into a product or garment the term ‘forming’ is used. This term is used with any product that has been made from material. Products that have been made from timbers, metals and polymers have all been ‘formed’ from a stock form of that material type.
- gathering - achieved by sewing two parallel lines to the top of a piece of fabric that can be pulled gently to A gathered piece of fabric. up the fabric and create fullness
- pleats - folds of fabric that are sewn into place and used to shape skirts
- shirring - created by sewing thin elastic, known as shirring elastic, into a garment in rows, creating elasticated panels
- darts - used to shape a garment on the bust, waist or back by sewing parallel lines on the inside.
- seams - formed at the point where two pieces of fabric are joined; they can be plain or overlapped to be hidden
- hems - used to neaten edges and to finish raw edges; they are generally straight but can be used to create a decorative edge
- felting - uses bonded fabrics, such as felt, which can be moulded over a A solid shape that is often used to make a mould. by heating and wetting it; the fibres can be pulled into shape and permanently set; used to make seamless hats
When creating a garment it is important to ensure it is the correct shape and sits properly on the wearer. There are many techniques to aid with this, including:
- Instructions on patterns to suggest how to fit a bigger piece of fabric onto a smaller one. - instructions on patterns to suggest how to fit a bigger piece of fabric onto a smaller one, eg easing a sleeve of a garment into an armhole
- A stitched line close to the edge of a garment to stop the facing material from moving inside the clothing. - a line of stitching on the underside of a seam used to prevent rolling, eg on a collar
- Used to add stiffness to a fabric. - often added parts of garments that need extra structural support, eg collars and cuffs
Wastage
Wastage is the process of cutting away material with tools and equipment. Creating textiles products will always involve a certain amount of waste, cut away from the pattern shapes needed, but good design can minimise the amount of fabric wasted.
- die cutters - shaped blades inside a foam stamp that can press through and cut several layers of fabric at once
- laser cutters - use a The process of creating a 2D or 3D design using computer software. drawing to make controlled laser cuts through fabric accurately and quickly
- shears - sharp scissors are used to cut a clean edge in fabric
- pinking shears - a type of scissor that cuts a zigzag edge to stop fabrics fraying
- heat element - a hot blade that can be used to cut through synthetic fabrics
Addition
Addition is the process of adding on material to another piece of material. At least two single pieces of material need to be combined for addition to take place.
- a godet - a pleat of fabric that is sewn to the underside of a fabric. It can be made in a contrasting colour and adds volume to a dress skirt
- piping - created using a thin strip of fabric cut on the The diagonal direction across a fabric., stitched around cord and inserted into the seam around the edge of soft furnishings or bags to improve wear and look attractive
- quilting - achieved using layers of fabric that are stitched together around a central wadding to create a thick, warm quilt
- boning - rigid rods of metal or plastic sewn into channels in a bodice; used in corsetry
