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Travels through Cuba: part four
by Pete Keane

children
Local children look forward to a game of baseball

Pete counts his blessings as he chills out in Vedado, and makes friends with the locals.

quoteToday seemed especially hot and the rucksack seemed heavier than usual. I tend to be over-cautious when I travel and pack everything bar the kitchen sink.

I’d barely walked a mile when my legs were turning to jelly and my head fuzzy from car fumes. I headed up the Plaza de Revolution and came upon a petrol station that seemed like a good place to stop. I barely made it across the forecourt before collapsing in a sorry heap.

As my sight began to clear and I noticed a man approaching me. He was tall, well dressed and looked more Mediterranean than Cuban. He introduced himself as Lazaro, and told me about the apartment he had for rent. I liked his easygoing manner and his clearly spoken Spanish. I tried to sound non-committal, preferring to find my own digs but thought there was no harm in looking. He helped me to my feet and off we went.

Pete Keane
Pete Keane

He could see I was exhausted and made it known the apartment was only two blocks away. It was an offer this weary traveller could hardly refuse.

As it turned out the apartment was delightful, it was comfortable, secure and best of all was the balcony. Lazaro made coffee and we spent the afternoon chatting about our respective lives. We conversed in English as he was very keen to improve his, a must-have qualification for the ‘Casa Particular’ business. Born in Havana 1962, he left school and worked full time whilst studying mechanical engineering at night. He graduated six years later and settled into his career. However, it wasn’t long before he realised the wages were barely enough to live on.

In 2001 his mother gave him the apartment here in Vedado. Desperate to escape the endemic poverty of his country he made the decision to turn it into a Casa Particular, which he would run full time. He said the first year was especially difficult and spent long hours working as a taxi driver to supplement his income. His first clients were a couple of Afghani refugees sent by the United Nations High Commission for Refugees. Since then he has accommodated Italians, Greeks, Spanish, Mexicans, French, Austrians and many others. For Lazaro, the best part of the job is meeting new people of different cultures.

I then asked him to comment on the current state of Cuba. “We are tired,” he said, “but with the right kind of government we could be the best country in the world.” He highlighted the grinding poverty that is an every day reality for his people. He was also adamant that a Capitalist economy was the only realistic option available, were Cuba to ever compete on an international scale. He was particularly bitter towards Fidel and his absolutist style of politics.

Lazaro
Lazaro

After this frank discussion we sat in silence for a few moments. I then realised how privileged we are in the West, how we enjoy a far greater level of control over our lives. Sensing that he might have killed the moment, Lazaro then jumped up smiling and said, “No worry my friend, no worry. These are not your problems. Come with me, I take you to the supermarket.”

As we walked into town I felt a great sense of peace and achievement come over me. Four years of dreaming had finally come true. The streets were damp from another recent downpour, giving everything around me a clean and vibrant smell. New and exciting sounds filled the air. I could hear the Spanish language lilting in that unique and lazy Cuban way. Huge banana plants arched over the high walls of spectacular mansions. Children played baseball in front of aged American cars, the likes of Chevrolets and Lincons. I returned to the apartment as dusk was falling. Supper quotewas a simple affair taken on the balcony. Up above me a large Havana moon was casting gentle shadows and a real sense of peace descended.

Share your travel stories and pics. Email them in to lancashire@bbc.co.uk.

The views expressed on this page are those of the contributor and the opinions expressed are not necessarily those of the BBC.

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SEE ALSO

Travels through Cuba: part one

Travels through Cuba: part two

Travels through Cuba: part three

Travels through Cuba: part four

Travels through Cuba: part five

Travels through Cuba: part six

Travels through Cuba: part seven

Travels through Cuba: part eight

Travels through Cuba: part nine

Travels through Cuba: part ten

Travels through Cuba: part eleven

Travels through Cuba: part twelve

Travels through Cuba: part thirteen

Travels through Cuba: part fourteen

Travels through Cuba: part fifteen

Travels through Cuba: part sixteen

Travels through Cuba: part seventeen

Travels through Cuba: part eighteen

Travels through Cuba: part nineteen

Travels through Cuba: part twenty

Travels through Cuba: part twenty one

Diaries of a traveller by Pete Keane

Disco Punk - the new dance? by Pete Keane

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