Boubou: Inkuru y'umwambaro w'ubururu w'amateka ukomoka muri Sahara

Boubou, umwambaro w'amateka muri Sahara n'uburyo wamamaye

Mu gihe uyu mwambaro w'ubururu wo mu butayu bwa Sahara usigaye ari amateka mu bihugu byinshi bikora kuri ubu butayu, muri Mauritania umuco wo kuwambara uracyahari kandi urasa n'aho ntaho uzajya.

Uzwi nka daraa cyangwa boubou, ikanzu ndende irekuye na tagelmusts (igitambaro cyo mu mutwe), niyo myambaro y'ibanze ku bagabo b'aborozi bahora bimuka muri Sahara.

Umwambaro w'ikirere gikaze

Iyi myambaro ifite inkomoko muri Africa ya ruguru aho yambawe kuva mu kinyejana cya karindwi n'icya munani, mu bihe bya mbere by'ubucuruzi bwambukiranya ubutayu bwa Sahara na Africa ya ruguru.

Mu gihe abantu b'aho bavuga ko iyi myambaro isobanura abantu baciye bugufi, benshi bemeza ko akamaro kayo k'ibanze ari ukubarinda izuba, hamwe n'imiyaga irimo umucanga ihoraho aho.

Dahid Jdeidou( ku ifoto) umu-guide wo muri ako gace ati: "Style n'imiterere ya daraa yacu ituma akayaga kagera ku muntu ahantu hagoye, ikanatuma umubiri w'umugabo ugumana amazi mu butayu".

Uyu munsi, uko abantu bagenda biyongera mu mijyi minini, n'imyambarire yabo ikagenda yisanisha n'iyo mu burengerazuba, iyi boubou abagabo bambaraga kugira ngo bambukiranye Sahara ubu ni akaranga k'ibyahise.

Ariko muri Mauritania aho abagabo benshi bambara boubou na tagelmusts biri mu mabara meza y'ubururu, uyu mwambaro uracyiganje kandi bisa n'aho ntaho uzajya vuba.

Umwambaro wakomotse mu bucuruzi

Mu gihe cy'ubucuruzi bwambukiranya Sahara, udu-centre tw'ubucuruzi twabaga tunyanyagiye mu nkengero z'ubu butayu, amoko menshi y'abantu agahora agurirana ibintu birimo imirimbo, amabuye y'agaciro, amatungo, n'ibitambaro.

Uko ibinyejana byagiye bihita, ubu bucuruzi bwagejeje amoko atandukanye y'abantu muri Mauritania - barimo aba-Tuareg bahora bimuka bo mu burasirazuba bushyira amajyaruguru, aba-Haratin bo mu burasirazuba bushyira amajyepfo, n'aba-Haalpulaar bo mu majyepfo.

Uko aya moko y'abantu yagendaga asanga aba-Berbers babaye muri Mauritania kuva mu kinyejana cya gatatu, niko idini ya Islam hamwe n'icyarabu byashinze imizi, ariko indi mico nayo iraduka.

Ubwubatsi bushya bwaraje, ibitabo biva aho hose mu karere ka Sahara birahagera, n'imyambaro yo muri Africa ya ruguru izana 'style' nshya y'ikanzu ndende irekuye y'amaboko maremare kandi manini.

Umwambaro w'abantu baciriritse

Kimwe n'indi myambaro irekuye nka kimono yo mu Buyapani cyangwa kaftan yo muri Mesopotamia ya cyera (ubu ni Iraq, n'ibice bya Iran, Kuwait, Syria, na Turkiya), daraa/boubou nayo yagize umwanya mu mateka y'imyambarire.

Ubwoko bwa mbere bwayo bitekerezwa ko bwavuye ku ba Haalpulaar, bari batuye bakikije uruzi Senegal hagati y'igice cya Senegal na Mauritania by'ubu.

Amaherezo, abantu bose bo mu byiciro binyuranye baje gukunda no kwambara boubou, ariko amabara yayo akanyurana bitewe na buri bamwe.

Abacuruzi b'abakire bambaraga boubou na tagelmusts by'ibara ryera nk'ingwa, kuko bari bafite ubushobozi bwo kuzihanagura buri munsi, mu gihe abacakara bo bambaraga iz'umukara, kuko bakoraga akazi kabanduza kandi bagahora mu mwenda umwe.

Mu kubura kw'imiti y'amabara y'umwimerere (dyes/ colorant) aho hose muri Sahara, boubou z'amabara zaje nyuma y'uko aba-Haalpulaar batangiye gucuruza imiti y'ibara rya indigo (ugenekereje ni ubururu bwijimye) na tekinike zo gukoresha iyi miti ya indigo ziramamara.

Boubou z'ubururu bwijimye zahise zihura neza n'ubushobozi bwa benshi batabashaga kwigondera boubou z'umweru z'abakire ariko kandi badashaka kwambara iz'umukara z'abacakara.

'Abagabo b'ubururu' ba Sahara

Mu gihe aba-Haalpulaar bashobora kuba baratangije boubou za indigo, aba-Tuareg nibo bakiriye banamamaza uyu mwambaro, ndetse bazwi nk'"abagabo b'ubururu ba Sahara" - izina amaherezo ryabahamye kubera uburyo ibara ry'uyu mwenda ryabaga rishashe neza ku ruhu rwabo munsi y'izuba rikaze.

Kuri Dr Anja Fischer, umushakashatsi ku bigendanye na Sahara muri kaminuza ya Vienna, akazi k'aba-Haalpulaar kaba karagize impinduka nini mu myambarire y'aba-Tuareg. Ati: "Aba-Tuareg cyera bambaraga imyenda y'impu, bigera aho bahindura bambara iyi myenda y'ibara ry'ubururu bazwiho cyane uyu munsi."

Aba-Tuareg ubu batuye igice kinini kuva muri Libya kugera muri Algeria, Niger, Mali na Burkina Faso, bahoze cyera ari bumwe mu moko manini ahora yimuka muri Sahara kandi bagize uruhare runini mu gukwiza Islam muri Africa.

Bari bazwi hose mu karere ka Sahara kandi iyi 'style' bafatiye muri Mauritania yaje gukwira hose muri Africa ya ruguru, nyuma n'ahandi hose ku isi.

Ubwoko bugezweho mu bururu

Mu myaka ibarirwa muri mirongo ya vuba, ahaziye imiti y'amabara igezweho iva muri Aziya n'Uburayi yoroshye gukoresha kandi idahenze, amoko anyuranye y'ubururu yarashobotse. Kwiyongera kw'abantu bishoboye mu mijyi ya Mauritania kwatumye bagenda bahitamo boubou z'ibara ry'ubururu bwerurutse kuko zijya gusa n'iz'umweru zahoze ari iz'abakire gusa.

Dahid Jdeidou ati: "Boubou y'ubururu bwerurutse iba isa n'iy'umweru, gusa isaba kuyitunganya buri minsi itatu cyangwa ine."

Isi itatse mu bururu

Isoko rikuru ryo mu murwa mukuru wa Mauritania, Nouakchott, ni isi y'ubururu mu by'ukuri. Abacuruzi benshi bagurisha imyambaro y'ubururu gusa, kandi nibura umugabo umwe muri bane aba yambaye boubou y'ibara ry'ubururu.

Muri Mauritania ibara ry'ubururu rirenze ibyo kwambara, rigera no mu biryamirwa ndetse no mu mitako y'inyubako nk'inzugi, ibisenge cyangwa amarembo.

Nubwo muri Korowani ibara ry'ubururu risobanuye ikirere n'ibyo mu ijuru, abanya-Mauritania bo bafite impamvu yoroshye kandi yumvikana yo kurikoresha; ni ibara nyaryo ryo kwirinda izuba.

Kwambara byo guseruka neza

Boubou za mbere zabaga zikoze muri soie/silk, ariko nyuma zaje gufatwa nka haram, ijambo ry'Icyarabu risobanura "ikibujijwe" mu mategeko ya Kisilamu.

Uyu munsi, mu masoko ya Nouakchott ni ibisanzwe kubona boubou/daraa zikozwe muri polyester cyangwa ubudodo buva ku ngamiya n'ihene, hamwe n'izikoze muri silk zitagenewe abasilamu.

Boubou nyinshi muri Mauritania ziba zinatatse imirimbo ya zahabu, izindi zinafite imifuka myinshi imbere mu ikanzu cyagwa inyuma - akantu katabaga kuri iyi myambaro mu binyejana byashize ariko ka ngombwa cyane mu mibereho ya none, mu isi yo mu mujyi.

Imyambarire yo mu bihugu by'iburengerazuba yakomeje kugerageza kwinjira muri Mauritania, ariko myinshi byarayinaniye.

Hademine Ahmedou, umu-guide wo mu mujyi wa Zouerat avuga ko abarimu baho hari ubwo bigeze gusabwa kureka kwambara boubou bari mu kazi kugira ngo batangire kwambara imyenda y'imico yo mu burayi na Amerika ya ruguru. Ariko benshi mu baturage ba Mauritania ntibashoboraga guhara umwambaro gakondo wabo wa boubou, n'akamaro kawo.

Batewe ishema n'umurage wabo

Mu gihe ibigize imyambaro gakondo byatakaye mu mijyi myinshi mu karere ka Sahara, abagabo benshi i Nouakchott bo baracyatewe ishema no kwambara boubou. Babaye ikintu ndangamuco wa Mauritania kuburyo n'abacuruzi bakomeye ubundi barangwa n'amakositimu y'ibikonyozi bakunda kwiyamarira boubou.

Aseka, Jdeidou ati: "Iha umuntu amahoro, iroroshye gusukura kandi isa neza".

Umwambaro w'ibiragano bizaza

Mu gihe byinshi mu bihugu byo muri Sahara ubu bigenda bifata imyambaro igezweho mu Burengerazuba, guhinduka bityo muri Mauritania bisa n'ibiri kure cyane. Abakiri bato nabo batewe ishema n'imico yabo kandi buri gihe baba biyambariye boubou.

Ahubwo bisa n'aho uyu mwambaro uri kwinjira mu myambarire y'Iburayi. Mu gihe gishize ubwoko bushya bwa tagelmusts zo muri Sahara zabaye icyitegererezo echarpes/scarves zigezweho Iburayi. Muri uyu mwaka, inzu izwi y'imyambaro mu Butaliyani, Valentino, nayo yafashe icyitegererezo kuri boubou za cyera zo muri Sahara ikora imyenda yo mu mpeshyi ya 2021.

Muri iki gihe imico myinshi igenda yugarizwa n'imibereho ya none yegeranye kandi ihindagurika ku isi, boubou y'ubururu na tagelmusts - n'umuco w'amateka bisobanuye - byo bikomeje kurabagirana kuva muri Sahara kugera n'ahandi ku isi.

Amafoto yose atangirwa uburenganzira na ba nyirayo