Sevilla

Robert enjoys getting back to 'his favourite city in the world', the capital of Andalucía, Sevilla. This was the main port that connected Spain with its American colonies, and greatly benefited from the trade of precious metals. Much of the local infrastructure was improved for the World Expo in 1992.



Robert looks back to another exhibition that shaped the city - the Spanish American Exhibition of 1929, best represented by the Plaza de España. This public space was designed as a symbol of all Spanish regions with every province picked out in the tiles that line it.



The Giralda is the tower of the cathedral, a landmark and symbol of the city's culture. The original Arab mosque was rebuilt as a cathedral in the 16th Century, retaining the Arab tower. Silversmith Fernando Marmalejo is proud of his contribution to its recent refurbishment and talks of the strength of the Arab tradition within his craft.



Robert is curious about a hotel run entirely by women - businesses owned by women are still unusual in certain parts of Spain, he says. Unfortunately, since filming there, their business licence has not been renewed and the establishment has now closed down.



But in Sevilla he meets up with one of the most prominent Spanish female politicians, Soledad Becerril, now mayoress of Sevilla.

A member of the conservative Popular Party, she was the first woman minister in the country in the early eighties.



'The greatest party in the world,' says Robert as he enjoys the annual Feria in Seville. It began as a horse fair but is now a week-long display of finery - people as well as horses. Families and businesses set up marquees in the Feria ground - some actually live here throughout the celebrations - and invite friends in for a glass of sherry and a dance.



'Downright unstoppable,' is how Robert describes the Spanish as he heads for bed after a night of dancing 'sevillanas'.



Bull-fighting is an essential part of the Feria. 'It speaks volumes about the dark side of the Spanish character that this national fiesta is a celebration of death,' Robert observes in the bull-fighters' graveyard. After talking to Luis Mariscal, a leading talent in the ring, Robert concludes,' Not a sport but a tragic spectacle where death always comes at the end ... Part of the intense theatricality of Feria.'



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