Today is another big one, a gruelling 300km across the Thar Desert. This is where the Indian army do their nuclear testing of missiles, pretty depressing for the people who live out here. Part way into the desert we overtake a military vehicle that has some ominous looking missile strapped to it.

Much later we begin to see hundreds of brightly dressed people who are basically travelling with what they can carry - usually no more than a holy flag, some water and a little food. Pappu tells us that the people are on a pilgrimage and fully intend to walk 2-300km. I feel ashamed; I am barely capable of remaining upright whilst these devoted pilgrims face this almost unbelievable feat of endurance.

Buildings in the desert at Jaisalmir

Up inside the walled city we find the Golden Fort restaurant. Making our way onto the terrace we are the only diners. A cool breeze washes over the balcony and the views are spectacular. During a delicious dinner of rice, chicken and various sauces we are serenaded by some local musicians. Needless to say, they too are very good. We applaud each number. Brian goes off to phone Stacy in Delhi and I sit on the floor with the musicians. When he returns they decide to ramp up the tempo which has an immediate effect on us. We show our full appreciation by dancing, clapping, singing and whistling along. I turn to look at my travelling companion - whose face is pure joy and we acknowledge without words that Jaisalmir is good.

Sadly, the owner who is none too pleased with our excitement comes up and asks us to leave. We then venture into the city and peruse some of the many stalls and shops. As night settles in we trudge back to the B&B and chat with Pappu before turning in.

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