Here, round the back of the hotel, it’s so quiet-almost eerie. The pool is perfectly still, like a sheet of plate glass. I bend down and dip my head in. Small ripples disturb the reflection on the water. I stand up and breathe in deeply. Closing my eyes I feel a deep sense of peace. I feel complete and at one with India. Another deep breath and I dive into the pool. I glide effortlessly through the water and reach the other side. A few more lengths for good measure. I then find a seat and move it out of the shade and into direct sunlight. I sit down and dry off naturally. Eyes closed, I let my body soak up all that energy from the sun. I can’t help but smile. I’m tingling all over, giddy. The only sound is water gently lapping at the pool’s edge. I stay like this for as long as the moment dictates.

Back in the mundane, vehicle and travellers are once more on the road. We pass through a lot of mountains. On the roadside we see countless marble shops. Lunch was a pleasant affair of Thali curry. Whereas, visiting the pit latrine afterwards wasn’t. Up above, clouds gather and increase the threat of rain. Eventually we land in Udaipur (City of Sunrises) and check into the Mewar Inn. Nice room, 100Rupees. After tea (more Thali) I feel the need for sleep and get a couple of hours in.

When I wake up it’s dark. I check with Brian to see if he fancies a walk round the city of sunrises but the pneumatic fervour of his snoring tells me that he’s happy where he is. Udaipur seems to have more than its fair share of mosquitos and I am bitten constantly. I wander the streets aimlessly, and chance upon a quite bizarre sight. Dead ahead, at the end of the main road sits a roundabout… and in the middle of that sits a huge artificial lake with half of the city splashing about in pedalows. Bright spotlights up above ensure that you don’t miss it.

On my way back to the hotel I come across a tiny, sun withered man selling grilled corn on the cobs. I gesture to him that I’d like one. He pulls me the finest he has to offer and dresses it with salt and lemon. There’s no common language between us so I hold out my hand and let him take out whatever they cost. He takes three Rupees and gives me change. I intimate as best I can that I really appreciate his honesty. He gestures back that God sees all and it’s wrong to rob his customers. How sweet.

By nine thirty I’m back at the hotel and fashion ear plugs out of my sponge li-lo mattress. Net result - a full night’s sleep.

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