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Take a trip on the train

Phil Carradice

Most of us, when travelling by train, rarely look outside the windows of our carriage. We bury our heads in our book or newspaper and only glance up to confirm our station has appeared. But a whole world of history is lurking out there and, if we only knew it, there is more than enough to keep us interested, whichever route we take.

The stretch of line from Llanelli to Carmarthen has to be one of the most beautiful lengths of railway line in the kingdom. It is also one that has so much history just lying alongside the train track, waiting to be discovered by the perceptive and interested train traveller.

Start with Llanelli station itself. Opened in 1852, this is an Isambard Kingdom Brunel-designed station building. The line was, of course, part of Brunel's wonderful railway - that has stone buildings with beautiful sandstone surrounds.

In its heyday the station had connecting lines for London, Pontardulais and for Shrewsbury. Even now this is the place to come if you are planning a trip on the Heart of Wales line, another exquisite and enchanting railway journey.

The town of Llanelli, well visible from the train, was an industrial community - steel and the making of saucepans (hence Sospan Fach, the rugby song) - but these days it has re-branded itself as something of a tourist centre.

Cycling, walking and top quality golf are all available. And the Scarlets rugby team is now in possession of its new stadium at the eastern edge of the town.

Once Llanelli is left behind, the train passes through 12 miles of the Millennium Coastal Path. The line follows the gentle curving arc of Carmarthen Bay, so close to the beach and estuary that it sometimes seems as if the train might easily topple into the sea. When the wind is up expect spray to mottle the windows - when it's calm the views out to Gower are spectacular.

Burry Port Harbour was once a centre for the export of coal; now it houses a marina. There were a couple of canals here, serving mines a little way inland and, in 1852, the Burry Port and Gwendraeth Valley Railway was opened - all long gone now, of course.

Next comes Pembrey Country Park. It houses the National Motorsport Centre of Wales but this area was originally the site of RAF Pembrey, a fighter base in World War Two

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The aerodrome was the centre of an exciting episode in 1943 when a German Focke-Wulf fighter landed and was captured intact. The pilot apparently believed he was landing in France.

The quay at Kidwelly was once a very busy port. In the 16th and 17th centuries ships of up to 400 tons berthed there on a regular basis but the growth of Burry Port, after the construction of its harbour in 1838, ended Kidwelly's importance.

The town's imposing Norman castle sits adjacent to the river and is still a spectacular sight. Built around 1106, it dominates the town. This was one of the earliest Norman settlements in south Wales, English and Flemish farmers and wool merchants being brought in to transplant the native Welsh.

Ferryside station sits alongside the estuary and the views across to Llansteffan are magnificent. Llansteffan Castle, on the hill above the estuary, is another Norman fortress but one that was later turned into a country house by the Tudors.

And so to Carmarthen town itself. This was reputedly the birthplace of the magician Merlin and there are those who say it was actually the site of Camelot.

The run into the station is lovely, crossing the River Tywi and with the bridge where Dylan Thomas' story "A Visit to Grandpa's" comes to an end, waiting ahead of you.

The line from Llanelli to Carmarthen is a wonderful experience for anyone with the heart and soul to appreciate beauty and history.

There are many other rail routes - the Heart of Wales line, the trip down the west coast past Harlech - in Wales but I think you would be hard pressed to better this atmospheric and enchanting piece of railway architecture.

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