Do chefs really care about Michelin stars?
The results are in. Europe’s most famous judge of culinary craft has broken its silence. We now know which restaurants will bear small stars beside their name in the 2011 Michelin Guide for Great Britain & Ireland.
The reaction to the Guide’s ratings has already started, in particular why some restaurants attained a star and why others didn’t. What truly defines a one, two or three star venue still remains open to interpretation because of Michelin’s relatively ambiguous criteria. It continues to stir a mystique – so how does the rating affect the kitchen?

Gordon Ramsay's thirst for Michelin stars was revealed in the documentary series, Boiling Point
We’re often told that many chefs develop a parochial lifestyle in the obsessive pursuit of attaining Michelin stars. Perhaps the revered French Chef Bernard Loiseau, who took his own life in 2003, is proof.
A documentary last year by food writer William Sitwell investigated the Michelin Guide’s affect on chefs. Bernard Loiseau’s wife, Dominique, appeared in the programme to discuss her husband’s obsession with Michelin prior to his death. She explained movingly how and why the restaurant continued, despite the sad, sudden parting of its driver, the engine restarted.
Within the UK, Marcus Wareing had the support of fellow chefs to win the coveted third star, yet instead was awarded two stars. I spoke to him last week about the Guide to shed to light on why it’s spurred an emotional "roller-coaster" for the past 15 years.
“They are an accolade of great history and substance; I think I’ve built my life around it, in a good way and a bad way.” Yet he believes chefs are “starting to realise that there’s a lot more out there to achieve”, paying homage to other awards and social networking’s grip on a restaurant’s fate. “As you get a bit older you start to understand them and calm down.” What do other chefs believe?
Francesco Mazzei, whose restaurant L’Anima, was also tipped for a star, but missed out again. For him, “a Michelin star is the best achievement a chef can ever gain. It helps the chef to become a perfectionist. But in terms of running a restaurant, it’s a different story. You have to make sure that the restaurant makes money, so you can pay your staff and it can have a long life.”
Bryn Williams trained in several Michelin-starred kitchens before owning his own restaurant, Odette’s. He was equally restrained on how stars affect his life. “You do see places get a Michelin star and then eight months later they're no longer with us because of that pressure in trying to gain a star. For me it’s all about the business.”
Chefs don’t necessarily take a sanguine attitude to winning Michelin stars these days – activity on Twitter suggested the opposite. At the grass roots, William Sitwell told me that the majority of young chefs he meets at catering college still list a Michelin star and owning a restaurant as the aspiration.
Maybe Michelin stars are “not the be all and end all”, as Marcus Wareing says. Incidentally, he likens fine dining to Formula 1 – with the surroundings, levels of service and the running costs – and that being part of a “beautifully-oiled machine”, in the kitchen and front of house, is actually what drives him. But if the Michelin stars should ever disappear, then Dominique Loiseau is surely living proof that a bad review should never mean the end of the road.
Have you been following the ratings? What do Michelin stars mean to you?
Michael Kibblewhite works on the BBC Food website.


Comment number 1.
At 19:50 19th Jan 2011, Damaris-KitchenCorners wrote:For me it means that the restaurant prices are going to go through the roof and I won't ever be able to eat there.
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Comment number 2.
At 14:37 20th Jan 2011, Ramaa wrote:It is nice to be awarded for doing a good job, in any field. And the best thing any chef can do is to make sure the people are happy too, dining at his restaurant.That's going to bring in the 'moolah'.Makes the chef double happy!
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Comment number 3.
At 23:18 20th Jan 2011, ORTHO wrote:"Au Revoir to All That" by Michael Steinberger is an interesting read.
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Comment number 4.
At 14:50 21st Jan 2011, Ramona Andrews BBC Food host wrote:There was also some discussion on the messageboard this week about Michelin stars:
https://www.bbc.co.uk/dna/mbfood/NF2670471
Dee: Oh yes - I noticed & printed off the new list. Firstly looked at a couple of our favourite places (1 star) to see if they had retained them (they had), then at a very disappointing one we visited last year where the food wasn't very good & the service pretty bad (the waitress did not look at us, smile or utter one word to us even when taking our order and we had to ask for some cutlery). I notice that a certain 3 star restaurant is now a 2 star - I bet that stung!! If we are on holiday & there is a starred restaurant within reasonable distance, we try to visit it. We go at lunchtime & most do a really good lunch deal that works out a similar price to good "pub grub". It is one of the highlights of our hols.
Joanbunting: Yes I noticed too and was horrified to see that a place where we had a truly awful meal and even worse service last summer had been awarded a second star! We tend to buy the Michelin France one year and Gaut Millau the next. One of my favourite tricks when travelling is to choose a starred restaurant and find a really simple hotel close by.
LeCreusetFiend: There seems to be a bit of a backlash against Michelin this year (see Jay Rayner's column in the food section of the Guardian). But, as I've said elsewhere, I was thrilled that Glynn Purnell retained his star for his fabulous restaurant in my home city of Birmingham, and also pleased to see Nathan Outlaw gain a second star - I've only eaten at his place once, but it was one of the best meals I've ever, EVER had!
Denadar: Yes, I had noticed and yes I do care. Some friends of mine and I try to have a foodie weekend every year, and must admit we do take notice of these ratings. We will now have to go back to Bray as I'd love to try "Parky's" Pub. I wonder if that star will give Heston an incentive to raise the standard of the food at the Hind's Head. Although I really enjoyed the food and the experience at the Fat Duck, I think it was the Waterside Inn that would warrant a return visit.
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Comment number 5.
At 09:23 24th Jan 2011, Ramona Andrews BBC Food host wrote:This piece in The Wall Street Journal might also be of interest:
https://online.wsj.com/article/SB10001424052748703959104576081623819411178.html?mod=rss_Food_and_Drink
"Who needs Hardens or Zagat to aggregate other diners' responses in these salad days of the Internet, when, at a click, you can read the whole of a food blogger's opinion about almost any restaurant you can name? If you are interested in somebody else's views, at least the blogs give you the chance to examine that person's reasoning and prejudices."
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Comment number 6.
At 15:32 31st Jan 2011, autovermietung wrote:I don't care about stars as long as the food is tasty and you have the feeling that the chefs are only cooking things they really are able to. Furthermore they should doing their job with passion!
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Comment number 7.
At 17:40 31st Jan 2011, Hugh Jameson wrote:Fair enough price is usually comparable to amount of Michelin Stars a chef/restaurant has achieved but on the whole the food will be amazing!!
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Comment number 8.
At 10:32 16th Feb 2011, Ramona Andrews BBC Food host wrote:On a slightly different note, but still relevant... Woman’s Hour on Monday was about Michelin stars and women, and asked if the chef profession is becoming more women-friendly:
https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b00yj18h
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