Exploring Russia diary :: 13 November, Omsk

This is a tale of two Siberias. One Siberia has welcomed us with open arms. When we went to meet the local communists, they offered us raw fish.

Cadets said they backed President Putin as a military man

When we met the People's Party, they offered us vodka.

And, back at the hotel, anonymous ladies have been calling my room offering much, much more. I've declined all the offers.

Then there's official Siberia - the people here with power - men and women in grey corridors who appear to be consumed by a Soviet-era suspicion of all foreigners. They've been far less hospitable.

Official Disapproval

Take Svetlana the press attache down at the local administration. When she found out we were in town, she called us for a meeting.

Click here to see a map of Steve's planned route

Svetlana asked us what we were doing in Omsk. We told her - she didn't approve.

"Why on earth do you want to see those communists?" she barked. "You should be reporting about United Russia." That's the party that supports President Putin.

I explained that we'd love to, but we'd called United Russia the day before and been told they weren't planning any election campaigning in the next few days.

"No problem," Svetlana said. "I'll give them a call. I'm sure we can organise something." There's no doubt which party those grey corridors are rooting for.

Svetlana said she didn't approve of the farm we were planning to visit.

"It's not one of our best," she advised. "Go and see our wonderful Omsk bacon factory instead."

Now this woman was trying to force pigs on me and I didn't like it a bit.

Then things began to get a little nasty. She called us Americans and accused us of being sent here by exiled Russian tycoon Boris Berezovsky to blacken the name of her city.

It didn't look as if Svetlana was going to offer us a cup of tea let alone a glass of vodka.

Students said they weren't interested in the elections

So off we went to film an advertising hoarding nearby which had a giant poster of Vladimir Putin.

We took out our camera - almost simultaneously, out popped a policeman. "Stop," he cried. "You're not allowed to film posters."

Now I know that in Russia you're not supposed to point cameras at bridges or airports - but at pictures of the president? It seems to me that is taking state security just a little too far.

Even Svetlana, the press lady, was shocked when we called to tell her.

Over the phone she told the policeman that filming posters was within the law. But only after he'd double-checked with the chief inspector were we allowed to get our long-awaited shot.

Next stop, approved by Svetlana, was Omsk University. There we met some students of English.

We chatted about politics. Most of them said they weren't interested in next month's parliamentary election.

They didn't believe it would change their lives.

One student even told me she thought there was no hope at all for democracy in Russia.

United Russia

Across town, at Russia's oldest military cadet school, they were much more positive about the future.

Despite the cold, a group of cadets marched up and down the parade ground chanting patriotic songs.

One cadet told me, Vladimir Putin had brought order to his country. "Our president is good for Russia because he's a military man," he said.

That was enough politics for one day. It was time to relax.

And the best way to do that in Omsk is to go to an ice hockey match.

We were lucky, it was the biggest game of the season - Omsk Hawks were at home to Dynamo Moscow.

You may be surprised to learn that Omsk Hawks have something in common with Chelsea Football Club - they're both owned by Russian tycoon, Roman Abramovich.

Looking across the packed stadium, I suddenly realised why the party of power, United Russia, wasn't out on the campaign trail - they didn't have to be. High above the rink, a large United Russia flag hung side-by-side with the Russian tricolour.

While the two sides waited patiently for the game to begin, the stadium echoed to the sound of a pop song in support of - you've guessed it - United Russia.

Now that's what I call subtle campaigning.

Your comments:

A very unique part of Russia Victoria, USA

I was born and grew up on Sakhalin and think it's a very unique part of Russia with its unique people (and nature!). Right now it's extremely popular due to all the oil production, but I just hope that it will remain to be the 'eighth wonder of the world,' as we used to call it when I was little, with its bizarre climate, nature and history etc. But thank you for taking on this trip and sharing your experiences! It brings a lot of great memories. Enjoy Russia!
Victoria, USA

I did the Trans-Siberian twice in 1991 - I couldn't get a ticket back from Vladivostok! The trip was pretty much hell on earth for an unprepared Westerner with not much to do, plenty to drink and certainly no video. Hard class (benches) were the norm even though I had a lux compartment. I found my fellow travellers welcoming and curious whilst the towns and cities along the route were a good mix of wood and Communist architecture. A marvellous experience.
Miles Wakefield, Spain

Good luck! I lived in Krasnoyarsk over six years ago, and even then there was a growing class of 'new Russians' in their BMWs and SUVs in a relatively modest, beautiful city in the middle of central Siberia.
Makiko Kitago, USA/Japan/Russia

I spent 2 years in Siberia, working for Yukos, though I am back with them at the moment in Moscow. I visit Siberia regularly and recognise the place from your articles. I fly everywhere though, you are a braver man then me! Enjoy the trip.
Andrew Simmons, Russia at the moment

I had a wonderful time when I visited Siberia in July - although it was very hot (40C)! I found the people to be bright, wonderfully friendly, creative and exciting - the face of new Russia. I can't wait to go back!
Sarah-Chanderia, USA

1. Leave Moscow: 9 November 2. Yekaterinburg: 10 November 3. Omsk: 11-13 November 4. Novosibirsk: 14-15 November 5. Krasnoyarsk: 16 November 6. Irkutsk: 16-19 November 7. Vladivostok: 20-24 November