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Last Updated: Monday, 17 November, 2003, 18:43 GMT
Exploring Russia diary: Your questions
Steve Rosenberg
Steve Rosenberg: No worries travelling across Russia
As campaigning starts for the parliamentary elections in Russia, the BBC's Steve Rosenberg answers questions from BBC News Online readers about his experience of crossing Russia by train.

Greetings from Siberia! What did you think about Russia before you started this journey and what do you think now? Has your opinion changed much?
Anatoliy Brewhanov, Siberia, Russia

The amazing trip has reminded me that Moscow is the exception, not the rule. Life outside the capital is tough; and for many people the word 'democracy' is seen as negative. But I've seen, too, how tough people are - the climate makes them tough,and history too: after all just in the last 100 years Russians have suffered Communist Revolution, Civil War, Stalin's terror, the Second World War, Brezhnev stagnation, collapse of an empire. And they're still hoping that their lives will eventually get better.

I have been reading your reports with glee. But I have a serious question: how do you communicate over there? I have heard that it is uncommon to find people who can speak English at all, and that business is usually done with an interpreter. Is this true? Do you have an interpreter? How is your Russian? Nastarovje!
Dom, Austria (ex UK)

In big cities like Omsk, Novosibirsk and Irkutsk you can always find some people who speak English. There are lots more Russians learning English today than ever before. Even in the tiny town of Yurty, eastern Siberia, 4500km from Moscow, we found teachers at the local school who spoke a few words of English. But we're lucky enough to speak Russian ouselves, so we don't need to go through an interpretor.

With the presidential election coming up, are you able to get an impression of how people really feel about President Putin? And are they aware of how regulated the messages they receive through their media is, since it is so tightly state-controlled.?
Lee-Anne Duncan, New Zealand

President Putin seems to enjoy genuine support across the country. The ongoing military conflict in Chechnya and the arrest of tycoon Mikhail Khodorkovsky haven't dented his ratings. Putin appears to represent what a lot of people in this country crave for - order and a strong ruler. Curiously even when people say their lives are tough, few blame the president. You rightly point out that there's increased regulation of the Russia media, but once again for most of the people we've spoken to outside the capital this isn't an issue.

What do the Russians think about the Baltic States joining the EU (if they remember the former Soviet states at all) and whether they believe the Balts are entitled to an official or private apology (compensation would be a pipe dream) by any Russian leaders/ citizens for injustices in the past- specifically the extermination of a sizeable chunk of the entire Baltic population prior to and following "the Great Patriotic War".
Jason Bloomer, Australia

The Baltic states joining the EU may be an issue for some politcians back in Moscow, but for Siberians it's the least of their worries. They're more concerned with getting through each day. As for an apology to the Balts, I think few Russians are prepared to do that. For many here the collapse of the Soviet empire is still a cause for regret - Russians aren't ready to reassess their past.

I interned at the Moscow Times last summer, am currently a law student at Columbia in NYC. I'm wondering what Siberians think, if anything, about the Putin government's recent crackdown on Yukos and Khodorkovsky. Does it concern them at all? Are they connected to Moscow politics? Does it change their impression of who President Putin is and what ideals he stands for? Do they see anything positive coming out of this? Would they support Khodorkovsky as a politician?
Elizabeth, USA

The crackdown on Yukos caused concern amongst Russia's liberal polituicians, and in the West; but in Siberia people don't appear to be so worried by it. Generally across Russia the oligarchs are viewed with suspicion - as robber barons who 'stole' the state's natural resources. The fate of Mikhail Khodorkovsky isn't high on the agenda for people here - one lumberjack we spoke to hadn't even heard of him.

Do people have enough to eat outside the big cities and how aware are they of what is happening outside of Russia?
Rita Elliott, Jamaica

Most people get by - nobody is starving.

In the remote villages of Siberia what we are talking about is self-sufficiency - that is, people relying on what they grow, milk from their cows, etc.

Surprisingly, people are reasonably well-informed about what is happening outside Russia.

Either through radio or TV, they know about the war in Iraq, for example, or that Roman Abramovich is the owner of an English football team.

What is the present state of religion in Russia? Do you see a lot of Russian Orthodox churches and are they kept in good shape? What about other religions in Russia?
Bob E, US

We have seen lots of Orthodox churches on our journey and in Novosibirsk in particular we saw a lot of new churches going up.

Some of the construction is sponsored by rich Russian businessmen. As for other religions, we did meet an American missionary on the train between Omsk and Novosibirsk.

The Jewish community in Russia is enjoying a renaissance and the Jewish autonomous region of Birobijan is on the Trans-Siberian route (although we will not be stopping there).

There are 20 million Muslims in Russia and Vladimir Putin recently said Russia was going to join the Islamic Conference Organisation.

Will Steve be reporting more on the passengers on the train? I am very interested in knowing how he passes his time, how the food is, whether he speaks Russian and how he is filing his reports?
Todd Gadomski, American living in the UK

I am travelling on the train with two wonderful people, producer Alan Quartly and cameraman John Landy.

Travelling in a group helps us get through the more gruelling moments.

Most of our time on the train is spent working, filming or interviewing people for TV and radio stories we will put together when we get back to Moscow.

The food is fine - if a bit greasy.

I can recommend the omelettes and the chicken in bread crumbs. But the quality differs from train to train.

Yes, I do speak Russian and I have lived in Moscow for 12 years. We are filing our reports and sending photographs using a satellite telephone.

My two sons Sean (13) and Richie (9) particularly appreciate all the details because we are thinking of taking the same journey. Could Mr Rosenberg include some more practical details about written and spoken Russian necessary for the trip?
Don Yancey, Hawaii

One word of warning, Don. Very few of the guards and conductors on the Trans-Siberian speak any English.

So here are a couple of useful words in Russian if you make the trip: "chai" (tea), "spasibo" (thank you), "poyezd" (train), "vokzal" (station), "ya amerikanyets" (I'm an American).

How safe do you feel travelling as a foreigner on the Russian train system. What precautions do you take? Are the Russian people friendly or hostile?
Ray Copeland, USA

I feel safer on a Russian train than I would on a British train - and the Russian trains always run on time.

The conductor lady in the carriage will give you a special blocking device to make sure no one can open the door of your compartment while you are sleeping.

In general, the Russian people are extremely hospitable and much more open than your average Westerner - although knowing the language helps, of course.

Just take normal travelling precautions.

Is there a question about Russia, its people and its politics that you would like Steve Rosenberg to find an answer to while he travels across Russia? E-mail us now with your queries and he will answer as many as possible.


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Disclaimer: The BBC may edit your comments and cannot guarantee that all e-mails will be published.

1. Leave Moscow: 9 November
2. Yekaterinburg: 10 November
3. Omsk: 11-13 November
4. Novosibirsk: 14-15 November
5. Krasnoyarsk: 16 November
6. Irkutsk: 16-19 November
7. Vladivostok: 20-24 November





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