Exploring Russia diary :: 15 November, Novosibirsk

In Novosibirsk they've got a lot to be proud of. This was the capital of Siberia in Imperial Russia.

It's also the geographical centre of the country, slap bang in the middle of the Tsarist Empire.

Villages outside Novosibirsk are crumbling

Novosibirsk has its own underground rail network, and one of the most advanced science research centres in the world, called Akadem Gorodok.

There you'll find everything from nuclear physicists to computer boffins hired by western software companies.

Novosibirsk so they tell me, leads the world in the production of artificial noses, machines which can sniff out hidden explosives in bags, which other noses simply can't detect.

They also do remarkable things here with snakes.

It's the only place in Russia which has its own institute of snakes.

One local company recently patented a new type of vodka containing snake venom. I bet that's got a bite to it.

Theft and vodka

But drive out of Novosibirsk into the snowy birches of Siberia, and you'll find a different world.

There's no running water, no telephones, no jobs

The village of Dubinka lies just 50 kilometres (30 miles) south of the science city, but the two places feel centuries apart.

In Dubinka, there are crumbling wooden houses with dirt floors.

There's no running water, no telephones. There are no jobs here, and no money.

The local village shop closed down two years ago. To buy bread you have to walk 3 miles to the nearest village.

I say walk because few people here have a car.

The one thing you can get easily is bootleg vodka. Alcohol abuse is widespread.

So I'm told is theft. Thieves here will steal anything, from milk churns to electricity cables from pylons.

To protect his supply of winter firewood from intruders one villager packed the woodpile with mines.

Loyal subjects

"Life here is awful" a retired miner called Vladimir told us.

Sunset over Siberia - little has changed since Tsarist times

"No one does anything to help us". But who did he blame? Not Vladimir Putin.

"It's not the president's fault. I blame his terrible advisers and the local authorities too."

It made me realise how little in this country has changed.

Russians always used to trust the Tsar to make their life better.

Even in a place as hopeless as Dubinka people still trust their president to bring them a brighter future.

Your comments:

I recently returned from 3 weeks in Russia, mostly spent floating down the Volga. People in our group were taking photos of the more picturesque Volga bridges for much of the time without problems. They were warned not to snap one or two of the locks, though few could resist a quick shot of the statuesque blonde who seemed to be in charge of operations at one of them...
David Stieber, Switzerland

I bathed in the lake near Novosibirsk once in June when the sand at midday was too hot to walk on in bare feet. I bet it is much colder for you. Go and visit the marker for the centre of Russia near the Stalinesque Theatre.
Malcolm Rigg, UK

This is such a great project. I am reading these articles every day and look forward to new stories. I am originally from Russia and you describe the country well. Thanks for your sense of humour. One needs it to travel and live in Russia! Good luck with the rest of the journey!
Anna, USA

1. Leave Moscow: 9 November 2. Yekaterinburg: 10 November 3. Omsk: 11-13 November 4. Novosibirsk: 14-15 November 5. Krasnoyarsk: 16 November 6. Irkutsk: 16-19 November 7. Vladivostok: 20-24 November