Jackie is currently in Bangladesh….
It could be a smell, a taste, a colour, maybe a word…. there are all kinds of triggers that can awaken a vivid memory of a place you’ve been to. There’s a certain deep blue that brings me straight back to the streets of Granada, where the sky seems to have its own special colour against the whitewash houses of the Albaizin. Strong mint tea with a little too much sugar makes me think of evenings in Morroco. There’s a slightly musty smell in some houses that reminds me of climbing the steep flight of stairs to my ballet class when I was a child, it still gives me butterflies.
A month into my stay, I know that Bangladesh will be all about sounds. I’m not sure exactly which sound yet, but there are several strong contenders. I suppose my first uniquely Bangladeshi auditory experience was on the London to Dhaka flight. Behind me was a large man with an appropriately large pair of headphones clamped to his head. He was listening to Bangla pop, loving it, and clearly keen that none of us should miss out on the musical brilliance he was enjoying so much. And so we dug into our evening meal boxes accompanied by his gentle humming. By coffee time, his performance had blossomed into synchronized armrest tapping and enthusiastic bleating-like noises. And just as I’d settled under my blanket for the night, our friend erupted into a heartfelt wail as he belted out lyrics passionately, tunelessly. I arrived in Dhaka tired.
From bleating to beeping, mention Dhaka to many people and soon you’re talking cars - lots of cars, packed in perfect pandemonium and apparent gridlock with rusty rickshaws, street sellers and small children. Yet, despite the seemingly impossible situation, everyone is determined to do what they have to do and somehow muddles through to get to where they’re going. I think of it as an epitome of life here. 
Anyway, it’s not the cars per se that bug me: it’s the car horns. They’re endless. Hooting seems to be as integral a part of driving as turning the steering wheel. I’m sure no driver in Dhaka has ever managed more than two streets without bleeping at least twice. It must be genetic. It’s like breathing. The only thing that makes it bearable is that it’s intermingled with the feeble tinkle of rickshaw bells and occasionally, a call to prayer which rings out across the city and carries the thrilling reminder that I’m somewhere far from home.

Several times at night my dreams (which are usually about dull things, like ironing or arriving late for work) have been pierced by the music of some kind of flute-like instrument. It passes under my window and continues off down the road. It’s magical and if I ever go missing overnight, it will be because I’ve jumped out of bed and gone off in pursuit of this sound. I even became so enthusiastic about it that one day I allowed myself to be talked into buying a flute off a street seller. So far I’ve only managed a few dying-owl type noises and my fingers are too small to cover the holes anyway, but the enthusiasm is there.

And finally, there’s one sound here which is replicated across the world and drowns out all other noises as nature lets you know it’s taking over for a while. Whether it’s in Kerala, Cairns or Cancun there’s something about a torrential downpour that has a universal quality and the sound of rain always reminds me that wherever I am, ultimately we’re all together in one small world. 
Jackie Dalton, Dhaka, Bangladesh
musty an unpleasant, old kind of smell
dug into started to eat
pandemonium chaos, confusion
intermingled mixed
in pursuit of trying to follow, hunt down
Comments
Hi Jackie! I´m glad to hear from you again :-). Oh Bangladesh seems to be very chaotic. Are you working there now? Best wishes, Ana Paula.
Hey up Jackie, sounds good to hear that you are in Bangladesh which was formerly known as East Pakistan. I have a special love for Bengali language and am always looking for websites on which I could learn it. I've never been to Bangladesh though, but I highly recommend that don't come back without having a go at fish and rice there 'cause it's said that Bangali people love to eat fish. Best wishes, Naheed
Hi Jackie! It's such a pleasure for me getting say something to you!!!Well I am discovering each day the resources of the BBC's site and I'd like to say that It's fantastic reading all of your stories and your more recent 6 minute english was absolutely fantastic. For the first time I got understand perfectly the difference between the english accents of many parts of the world and the woman who's whit you has a interesting accent in my opinion. Right now I get realize how's the traffic jam there. wow! That's really a chaos. How you can see I am a beginner in english language but I want you and all staff to know that you all are helping me a lot! Maybe i am more confident when the program of learning english is with you because you've posted that you have a some knowledge in portuguese. So we are at the same level in relation of english to my side and portuguese to your side. lol Regards from Brazil
Hello Jackie! :) Hope you are doing well.. I can pretty much understand where you are coming from! lol it drives me insane sometimes.. What are you upto there? Some sort of work? Well, of course I'm not assuming you're there for holidays *cheesygrin* Anyways its just so delightful to hear from you, I absolutely love your 6mins English! Many thanks.. Looking forward to here more from you and more about your trip to Dhaka! ;) take care, good bye, Amy.
Hi,Jackie It's nice to hear that you are in good health.I totally understand how irratating when you don't only have a choice but also to listen beepng noisy from cars.Whenever I visit my county I get frustrated because any kind of vehicle drivers is hooting impatiently all the time.I think it looks some countries drives' terrible hobby rather than genetic.Thank you and take carexx
Hello Jackie who sounds so funny and natural in 6 mn English, How to...A well enjoyable way to teach all of us all around the world! I can nearly hear this hurly burly as your description is accurate. Very nice for me who love words. There are so many differents noises, each of them would deserve its own word. What a good range here with you! Do they still sound as loud as at the beginning of your stay or are you so used to hearing them that they seem less deafening? What about people themselves' noises? I assume they are not dumb!! They must well laugh, chat and so on because they are quite lively. I can imagine! Have birds a little place to make them hear? I ask you that because I'm fond of looking at them when they are playing, chirping...in my garden. I like thinking they are chatting. You could perhaps share your new skills with us soon. I mean with your flute!!How does that grab you? A native could be happy to teach you some airs. Bye from a regular one of your programmes.
Hello Jackie! The autumn wind has blown onto my screen a nice surprise and filled me with sounds distances and sought for peace. Such a nice letter it is and yet with rather tough language for me. The only what I do know about Dhaka is that there is a wonderful world famous building, The national parliament of Bangladesh, built by Luis Khan who devoted all his skills and art to symbolize the peace in this architecture work. Isn´t it so in reality?
Hi Jackie: I am new to the blog. However I am familiar to the radio and your programmes are among those of my favorits. BTW your voice is very nice to listen. Though this writing seems a liitle advanced for me to follow, and I have no idea as to the place where you are. I still enjoy reading and find it a very good writing too.
Hi Jackie This is really an interesting read. I can visualize what you are saying about the city. Your thoughts are brilliant. I have never been there but it does give an insight on what the city looks like and what to expect. I would love read more of your blogs. It is the first time that I come across it. Perhaps you could have added more things on how people manage to live. Also, the pictures are fab.Anyway, thank you
hi,jackie welcome to my country .jacki have you ever been to our country side .you will love that.they are not packed like city .if possible try to go on river crouse .we got so many river.oh by the way have you eat "Eilsha Fish " yet ?
Lovely to hear from you all and learn about your interest in Bangladesh. It's a great place. Naheed, I have had plenty of fish and rice. The food here is delicious, so I'm making the most of it! Amy and Ana Paula, I am indeed working - even if it might just look like I'm having fun! Tell me about places you've been to... what kinds of things reminds you of them? Smells, colours, music... ?
Hi.jackie its nice to hear you came in bangladesh.you are right here's driver didn't have any patience. if you don't go out side of dhaka then you couldn't understand how beautiful natural inviounment. you have missed it .thanks.
Hi Jackie! Once I was on holiday on the coast of Croatia and the recalled sound of waves takes me into the splendid paradise life. I studied in Prague and first morning and last night tolling of tram´s tintinnabulums reminds me of this past life which is hard to believe I had once lived. A year or two I visited school art class and the smell of tempera, the quiet of focussed working class and the empathy, courtesy and goodness of our lady-teacher settled in my soul like the tee you have to walk to...and so on..,Marianna
Hi Jackie, I wish you enjoy your stay in Dhaka. I think all we need is patience when we are stuck in traffic.
Hello Jackie, I've read the 6 min english and I liked it very much. Seeing the pics, Bangladesh seems to me so lively. As for the noisy car horns...maybe you could reduce 4 decibels puting a piece of cotton in your ears. :-P Working or on holidays, your life must be so exciting, Jackie. If you have some fun while working, you can marry the two things. I hope you enjoy your stay in Bangladesh and say hello to those nice people posing for your picture. Bye
Thank you Jakie for replying to our comments! I still have vivid memories of India. It was a wonderful experiance of going to Chopati beach and another one called Juhu chopati beach. It makes my mouth water whenevr I think of the ice-cream and masala dosa I ate at juhu chopati. The best of Chopati beach was its coconut palms. There was another city I had visited in India called Ahmedabad. It was winter then and what I remember most about the city is its quiet and stary winter nights and the sipping on a glass of chilled pineapple juice with my sister. Have a wonder time in Bangladesh. Naheed
Nasima and Nadeem, I know you're right about how beautiful and peaceful the countryside regions are and I hope I'll get the chance to spend plenty of time there. I love Bangladesh and I want to see as much of it as I can. Not eaten Eilsha fish yet, but I'll look out for it. Marianna... trams...I also have a special affinity with the sound of trams, have spent a lot of time in Geneva, which is full of them. I've yet to see the parliament building in Dhaka - I hope to soon. Naheed, India sounds wonderful - it's one place I would love to go to and I will try to go soon, especially as I'm just next door at the moment. I'll have some pineapple juice. Josette, yes the people themselves make plenty of noise too! Everyone around here is incredibly friendly and people love to talk, so I hear constant chitchat and laughter, especially among the rickshaw drivers outside my window.
Hi Jackie, Very nice blog indeed. Your description of Bangladesh couldn't be better. What a cultural contrast you experienced. Anyway, I think that travelling and getting to know other cultures bring us a deeper knowledge of ourselves. Have a good day. Cris
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