Amateur effort: The long climb up Alpe d'Huez

The number of motorhomes on the mountainside was only beaten by the ramshackle collection of cycles, from heavily laden mountain bikes to slim amateur racers charging past.

A drunken rendition of You'll Never Walk Alone - with a distinct Dutch twang - could be heard upon completion of the climb of the 21 hairpin bends.

By the descent, what I assume was the brass band that follows the Netherlands football team, had arrived to run through their repertoire.

Down in Bourg d'Oisans, in the valley below, the aisles of the local supermarket were packed, two trolleys abreast, as final provisions were taken on board for the ascent.

Presumably paint was a favourite item, judging by the amount that was being carefully stencilled onto the road in anticipation of the big day on Tuesday.

Polka power: The mountains loom large

Much of it was orange but this is not solely a Dutch party. The Germans are here, with beer cans artistically placed on the roadside to spell out J-A-N for their hero, Herr Ullrich.

There are plenty of Belgians, a fair few French and also Italians from over the nearby border. And the English-speaking world is strongly represented.

North American accents and US Postal jerseys were much in evidence, while I counted at least three Australian flags awaiting Stuart O'Grady on the climb.

And the British have enthusiastically painted David Millar's name on the road, presumably buoyed by news that he is no longer the "lanterne rouge" at the back of the race.

Arguably the best bit of road painting is also British, a bit of free advertising to look for on the television; "Brixton Cycles, Sarf London" is on one of the final bends.

Wimbledon-like crowds

I had been warned to expect a rock festival-type atmosphere, but this is more than a party.

Perhaps also a high altitude, chillier version of the famous queue outside Wimbledon.

But sunny SW19 in "sarf London" this is not - on the higher parts of the climb it is even colder than the muddiest Glastonbury, while Sunday night was wetter too.

I will not go on about how hard the ride up the mountain actually was - after my slow grind it is time to bring on the professionals to show us all how it should be done.

The weather has improved beyond measure and even though I need to ride up halfway again to see some serious action tomorrow, I can't wait.