Sound engineer Rob Winter and I arrive in Sri Lanka’s capital Colombo during Vesak – the full moon festival celebrating Buddha’s birthday and attainment of Nirvana. Our first few hours in the city pretty much sums up our brief stay; it overwhelms the senses. If the searing 40 degree heat and punch from the chilli infused food doesn’t do it, surely the multi-coloured lanterns and flags in the streets, constant hum of three-wheelers, buses and friendly horns will.
Colombo streets during Vesak
We visit the Gangaramaya temple and meet temple musicians playing the noon call to prayer, or Pooja. The sounds of the Thammattama and Davula drums and the Horenava pierce through the air - even from outside the temple across the street.
Musicians from Gangaramaya Temple in Colombo
Sri Lankan Buddhists spend the day at the temple praying and meditating, burning oil lamps and incense, fasting and wearing white.
Incense burning at Gangaramaya Temple Colombo
Outside the city centre we meet Mr TS Murugesh who plays us examples of traditional Tamil folk music. Our request for purely acoustic instruments is apparently a very rare one – nowadays TV appearances call for electronic backing tracks it seems. I hear a mournful and unsettled tune that turns out to be a love song, with a happy ending! So much for my western ears.
Mr T S Murugesh and ensemble in the garden
Next we visit Pradeep Ratnayake – who plays the sitar. This might be more of a traditionally Indian instrument, but Pradeep is aiming to give it a Sri Lankan identity too. He pairs it with the Kandyan drum, synonymous with the music and dance traditions of the region. It’s made with monkey, cattle and deer skin and has a distinctive and warm tone. Pradeep uses traditional Sinhala folk melodies in his music, in the hope that more people will come to hear this aspect of Sri Lankan culture.
Pradeep Ratnayake, Professor Karunarathna Bandara, Nirmala Damayanthi Rathnayake
