Ice crystals on the window flying to Larnaca
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Flying to Larnaca, I read that "Cypriots do not use indicators whilst driving - make eye contact at intersections before you pull out". Nervously navigating our hire car from the airport, my first impressions didn’t alleviate my concern; it's hard to gauge whether the men in the cafes are friendly as they rarely look up from their wooden backgammon boards, devilishly strong coffee and water chasers.
Just such a man greets me as I arrive at his house in Sia Village, south of Nicosia. It's late and the dusky light is sinking behind the carob orchard. Michaelis Terlikkas (below) is stocky, with thick, greying hair, wearing his trademark leather waistcoat and sporting a large bushy moustache that he twists and adjusts all evening. Though not very tall, he is an imposing character.
We exchange few words as my grasp of Greek is non-existent and I busy myself studying my notes on his songs and music.
Michaelis then brings out an unmarked bottle and some shot glasses. He, the other musicians and I must drink. It's the rule! The liquid looks and feels like pure alcohol. We record 4 wonderful traditional Cypriot songs, then drink. It's the rule apparently!
Recording completed, it's time to tidy up and leave.
There is another rule however - eat! And so the table starts to fill up with plates of food. Tomatoes and lettuce from his garden, halloumi and feta rubbed with oregano, olives, homemade sourdough bread, sausage and meat fritters stuffed with cheese and wine from his friends vineyard. We eat, we drink and through broken English and flailing hand gestures we chatter, laugh, drink and laugh some more.
First impressions are now lost in a haze of friendship and 55% proof Zivania and I will sleep well through the warm Cyprus night.
Gavin
