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DANNY ROBINS' INDIE TRAVEL GUIDE TO...BIRMINGHAM
Post categories: Danny Robins
|14:14 UK time, Thursday, 7 October 2010
The UK's second city is in the news this week as the Conservative Party Conference hits town. So, I thought it was about time to do an Indie Travel Guide to the mighty Brum.
Birmingham gets a lot of stick - for its ugly 'concrete jungle' town planning including the 'landmark' Spaghetti Junction road system, and, perhaps unfairly, for the Brummie accent.
So, this week's guide is out to prove that should you, like David Cameron, choose to hang out there for a bit - there is good stuff going on.
Birmingham's Musical Credentials
Being such a big city, Birmingham has obviously produced its fair share of musicians. It lays a pretty good claim to being the birthplace of heavy metal. Ozzy Osbourne and Black Sabbath and Judas Priest all hailed from there and Robert Plant and John Bonham from Led Zep were from the area.
The Reggae and Ska scene got big in the 80s, with The Beat and Musical Youth.
Other Birmingham musical alumni include Duran Duran, The Streets, Ocean Colour Scene, and Dexy's Midnight Runners, amongst many, many more.
And indie-wise, recent successful Brummies include Fyfe Dangerfield, The Twang and Editors.
And finally, music fact fans, it's also the place where the Mellotron keyboard was invented - you know, the early sample based keyboard used by the likes of the Pink Floyd, David Bowie and, most famously, on The Beatles Strawberry Field Forever.
Let's meet at the pub shall we?
Here's a couple of tips for good places to go for a pre-gig drink - or for entertainment that might keep you there all night.
Pretty central, near The Mailbox shopping centre, the Victoria has good beers, good food and some great events - Tonight (Oct 7th) they've got Popcorn Comedy - a night that started life in London where stand ups share the bill with screenings of funny videos. Tim Key, who won the Edinburgh Comedy Award in 2009 is headlining. Next week there's Skeptics in the Pub, a discussion group for those who are of a sceptical/scientific persuasion. Regular events include a music and film pub quiz every Tues, bands and DJs and film nights on Sundays. And a pie and pint deal. It's my kind of pub.
Also worth checking out is the Victoria's sister bar Island Bar, voted one of the 50 best bars in the UK in The Independent last year. It's covered in music posters, they have bands and plenty of indie nights. They also have Birmingham's first Tiki bar (Polynesian-inspired cocktail bar for those not in the know).
And finally, this independent bar, still fairly central is definitely worth checking out. They have indie nights on Friday and Saturdays and one review described it as "the perfect place to take your indie loving date". It's just near New Street station, so it could be your first stop if you arrive on the train.
Some of the gigs at The Sunflower Lounge are organised by The Catapult Club promoters who do stuff weekly here, and in a couple of other venues. A mate of mine from Brum tells me that Arthur Tapp, the man in charge is Birmingham's 'Lord of Indie'. www.myspace.com/thecatapultclub (they also have a Facebook page).
A guided tour through Birmingham's rock history...
If you fancy going on a nostalgic tour through some of the historic spots that have put Birmingham on the music map, try this circular route for size (you'll need a car or to hop in a taxi)...
First off, head over to Eve Hill in Dudley where the iconic photo on Led Zeppelin's IV album was shot. Remember Plant and Bonham were local boys. Don't stay long - it's a bit rough around there.
Next you're going to go in search of Nick Drake's grave which is in St Mary Magdalene Cemetery in Tanworth in Arden, about half an hour's drive out of town. Drake grew up in Tanworth. The gravestone bears one of his lyrics "Now we rise, and we are everywhere." It's in a very pretty spot overlooking hills and meadows.
On the way back into town, you could go past Birmingham University, where Joy Division played their last ever gig. It was recorded without anyone knowing it would be Ian Curtis's last performance.
You'll need some refreshment by this point, so complete your circle by heading up to the The Bartons Arms in Aston it's not in the most trendy part of Brum but it's a beautiful old pub with good beers and its claim to music fame is it was Ozzy Osbourne's drinking den in the early days of Black Sabbath. Other famous drinkers there include Laurel and Hardy and Charlie Chaplin and it also featured in the film Felicia's journey by indie film-maker Atom Egoyan. It's got a really beautiful interior.
Finish the night off with a gig, perhaps at a venue that presents a much more recent slice of Birmingham's musical history. The O2 Academy moved to new premises last year and celebrated the re-launch with a series of gigs featuring local talent who'd made it big - Editors, The Twang, The Streets and Ocean Colour Scene.
A little bit of culture - Check out some album art...
Now, when you visit a city, you often feel compelled to visit an art gallery. It's just the sort of thing you're expected to do when you visit somewhere isn't it? Paris has the Louvre, Florence has the Uffizi - well, how about visiting a gallery that's all to do with music? St Paul's Gallery is a gallery in central Birmingham that is home to the world's biggest collection of album cover art - featuring original artwork for everyone from The Who to Kings of Leon. And, it's for sale. If you can't make it to the gallery, they do also sell online.
And catch a film...
Birmingham has the UK's oldest working cinema - The Electric - it's a lovely art deco building with plush seats, sofas and waiter service. Today it specialises in 'intelligent mainstream and independent films'.
Food...
You can't go to Birmingham without sampling some curry. Brum is famous for it. It's claimed that the Balti was invented not in India but here in the 1970s. So, after the gig/pub, get yourself to the area of town known as the 'Balti Triangle' between Ladypool Road and the Stratford Road in Sparkhill. It's a bit out of the centre but you have to go there - it'd be like going to Rome and not having a pizza.
I am told my a good mate from Birmingham that the best Balti to be found currently is at Grameen Khana in the heart of the famed 'triangle' (www.grameenkhana.com). I suspect it's one of those things where everybody has their own personal favourite (see some of the other tips down below!), so if you're a local, feel free to disagree...
And no meal is complete without desert - the other food that Birmingham is famous for is chocolate - it's the home of Cadbury's. You can visit Cadbury World in Bournville - a theme park which sounds just a little bit like Willy Wonka's chocolate factory.
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