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April 2003
A Second City Stroll
by Blue Badge Tourist Guide Ian Jelf
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Ian Jelf takes you on a stroll of Birmingham
So, what might a general, introductory walk to Birmingham involve? Something that would appeal equally to visitors and locals alike? Well, join me, Ian Jelf, for a brief wander around Britain’s Second City…….
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Our journey begins at the heart of the City at the statue of Queen Victoria, in the appropriately named Victoria Square.

Our theme of looking at things that the casual observer might miss gets off to a flying start as we find that the late Queen is shown here minus her wedding ring! We can also look for a paw print left behind by Ebony, a canine member of the construction team landscaping the square in 1993.

Birmingham Council House
Birmingham Council House

Next it’s time to look at two of the City’s finest civic buildings. The Council Housewould credit any country as a parliament building, especially since its stone (from Anglesey, by the way) has been cleaned.

Nearby is the Town Hall, not the seat of local government (that’s the Council House), but a grand concert hall, currently undergoing reconstruction. Looking rather like a Roman Temple, it was designed by Joseph Hansom (of cab fame) and has played host to some distinguished visitors, from the Elgar to the Beatles.

Spirit of the River
'Floozie in the Jacuzzie'

Before we leave the square, there’s time to admire two fairly recent works of art. Iron Man, sculpted by Anthony Gormely (who did Gateshead’s "Angel of the North" and Dhruva Mistry’s Spirit of the River, irreverently dubbed "The Floozie in the Jacuzzi" by Brummies!

Then it’s off down New Street, which turns out to be one of the oldest streets in the town! We pause to admire a shopping arcade which was once a cinema and at the oddly-named Needless Alley, the course of which follows a mediaeval plough line. And this in the middle of a city of a million people!

Birmingham’s tiny Anglican Cathedral of Saint Phillip is our next stop. Built in a distinguished baroque style it turns out to be the third smallest Anglican Cathedral in England (after Carlisle and Oxford, if you’re wondering). The churchyard too yields a few secrets.

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St Phillip's Cathedral

In a city famed for concrete flyovers and tunnels, it sometimes comes as a surprise to people to see such an elegant nineteenth century cityscape as that surrounding the Cathedral.

The fine Great Western Arcade is lined with elegant shops while the terraces of Colmore Row, saved from the sixties bulldozers and now cleaned to perfection make this one of the most elegant parts of Britain’s Second City.

A short stroll brings us next to the excellent Museum & Art Gallery, home of the largest collection of pre-Raphaelite art in the world. But a visit wouldn’t be complete with an explanation of how the clock tower ("Big Brum") was cleaned of several feet of pigeon droppings some years ago!

Chamberlain Squareis overlooked by the City’s controversial 1970s Central Library, now itself under threat of demolition and an essay in seventies concrete inverted pyramid designs! (The design apparently diffuses light entering the building and protects books and manuscripts from fading, we’re told.)

Beyond there is what is indisputably the "New Birmingham". Overlooked by the multi-million pound International Convention Centre(ICC), with its showpiece Symphony Hallconcert venue, Centenary Square was so named because it was laid out in 1989, when Birmingham celebrated its centenary as a City.

TheHall of Memory, the City’s War Memorial is here, too, a marvellously understated, dignified monument to Birmingham’s fallen of the First World and subsequent Wars.

One of the most "quirky" pieces of new sculpture in Birmingham is Forward, by Birmingham born (but Paris based) sculptor Raymond Mason. This shows a group of citizens, some famous, some ordinary, striding "forward" from the old part of the City to the Convention Centre and the future.

Canalside
Canalside

This is a good place to end our introductory walk, although "Forward" does point in the direction of many of the City’s other delights: the restored canalside area, the National Indoor Arena, the entertainment centre of Broad Street and much more.

But perhaps for now it’s time to head for a drink at the Malt House where President Bill Clinton once popped in for a pint……




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