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EDITIONS
Tuesday, 7 January, 2003, 10:34 GMT
Expat e-mail: Russia
Jonathan Bibbings has cooked for the likes of Tony Blair and the royals at the British Embassy in Moscow, as he tells in our series featuring expatriate readers of BBC News Online.

I came by this job after two years working split shifts in a busy restaurant in South Kensington. As I had previously worked in France and really enjoyed my time there, I decided to look for something overseas.

Wedding photo of Jonathan and Olya, Sept 2002
Jonathan married his Russian girlfriend last year
Two jobs came up - one as head chef for Richard Branson's holiday home and the other as executive chef for the ambassador. I missed out on the first; and after a few trips to the Foreign Office I headed for Moscow in September 1996.

As I waited to clear immigration, I wondered what I'd let myself in for. The airport was so dingy, with what seemed to be hundreds of cake tins stuck to the ceiling - what was state-of-the-art in 1980 for the Olympics was now faded and dull.

For the first week my feet didn't touch the ground. I was taken out by a large group of young diplomats determined to show me what a great place Moscow was.

EX-BRITAIN
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Moscow is about 1,560 miles from Bushey Heath in north London
What Jonathan misses most is bread - "it's just not the same here"
I live and work in the ambassador's residence, a large mansion opposite the Kremlin that dates back to 1891. It was built by a sugar baron and very richly decorated - walls hung with silk, huge chandeliers and magnificent parquet floors. It became the British Embassy in 1931 and was used as such until the completion of the new embassy in 2000.

My job is to run the household. I buy everything from champagne to fabric conditioner to chocolate, administer the staff, run the kitchen and act as head waiter. I've done formal dinners for Princess Anne when she came to open the new Embassy and Tony Blair. We've hosted a rock concert in the garden, several balls, and Vogue fashion shows.

Pace of change

Moscow has changed almost beyond recognition in the time I've been here. At first there were the haves and the have-nots, with nobody in between; today there's a rapidly emerging middle class.

Stallholder selling Russian dolls in Red Square
Despite more money in Russia, many do struggle
When I arrived, there were big Mercs but no Fords; that's all changed with more money coming into the city. And advertising has just boomed - every spare space is now taken up with posters.

I also find it much easier to get the ingredients I need. Whereas before I had to import some food stuffs from the UK, I've largely given up - in part because it became such a hassle to get the necessary paperwork. The only thing that's still hard to get is pasteurised milk - only one big department store stocks it, it's UHT everywhere else.

At work, I do British-style cookery - puddings mainly, such as steak and kidney or sticky toffee - but off-duty I try to incorporate aspects of Georgian cooking in my meals. It's quite heavy, rich food but very, very tasty: lots of kebaby-type dishes, as well as lots of garlic, aubergine, and peppers.

Saunas and snow

Social life here is very good; lots of clubs and bars and a good expat community make for lots of late nights.

Jonathan's team plays broomball
He plays broomball, a mix of ice hockey and curling
In summer the bars all build terraces where customers can while away weekend afternoons quaffing very nice Russian beer for �1 a pint.

My wife and I also go out to her parents' dacha - a very basic country house - for shashlik (kebabs), walks in the forest, and strawberry feasts. Last summer her dad built a Russian sauna which will be ready for use this year.

In winter the coldest I have known it is -35C. Even going outside was unpleasant, so I have no idea how the old ladies who clear the subways and bus stops of snow managed it.


Every Tuesday we bring you the story of a Briton who has upped sticks and moved abroad. Do you live far from home? Tell us your experiences, using the form below.

I lived in Moscow from 88-90, and ran the broomball league for a while - great to see expats still play. Prior to the fall of the Soviet Union, contact between foreigners and Russians was tightly controlled - good to see this at least has improved since then.
Martin Rogers, London

We've been living in the Russian capital for nearly two years, next to the stadium which is handy as last year I saw Real Madrid play for �3. I still can't stand ice hockey but a good game of cards with shashlik and vodka, dacha style, makes for a good weekend.
John, Moscow

Lived in Moscow from 93-96 and loved it. Georgian food is amazing and impossible to get a decent version in London - Jonathan should set up a restaurant if he comes back.
Chu, UK

Must disagree with Chu - there is a very authentic Georgian restaurant in London called Tbilisi on the Holloway Rd.
Adrian, London

Bangkok feels a million miles from the south Wales valley town where I grew up. I have a great apartment, I walk to walk in minutes, earn more than I would in the UK, get home twice a year and my three-year-old has a full-time nanny for less than �100 a month. Despite all this, there is no place like home.
Angela Tokalau, Bangkok

New York doesn't really feel that foreign as most of the home comforts are available here - including 3 Premiership matches on TV on New Years Day. I'm not ready to move back to the UK - the weather is too depressing and the stadium seating in cinemas here is just too good.
George, New York

Life is definitely better here. I earn less now than I did when working in London 12 years ago but I still have a better quality of life and higher standard of living. I don't miss the UK that much as I can get BBC TV and radio on cable here, which enables me to keep up with EastEnders and the Archers.
Louise Schooneman, near Amsterdam

I lived to 9 years in Chicago and saw a lot of change in culture: superficial change like finding malt vinegar in cafes and cider in pubs; to improvements in public transport, crime, and discussions of world affairs. I'm a bit sad to be "back home" - it's like admitting defeat - but it's certainly got a feeling of comfort and familiarity that being in an "alien" culture like the mid-west never had for me.
Ant Reid, UK

In Paris everyday I come across cultural differences, which were at first difficult to gap. La bise (greeting people by kissing on the cheeks) was probably the most difficult - but as the years pass I find myself more outgoing as the French mentality infects me with aspired confidence and a good nose for wine. But despite the magnificent time I have spent here, a change is in order. I plan to move back to the UK this year to join the army as an officer and see the world a bit more.
Matthew Gaffney, France

Celebrating 10 years in Vietnam this month and have seen tremendous changes. Hanoi was like a ghost town in 1992 and the locals were largely unforthcoming; no taxis, no foreign restaurants worth mentioning, no internet, nothing but a few backpackers and expat businessmen still suffering from FVE (First Visit Euphoria). In 1995-7 it was busy busy busy and then steady decline but now it's on the up again and this time with a good dose of realism. Living standards have risen dramatically for most locals and there is a permanent expat community building up consisting of those who have made long-term commitments to Vietnam.
Andrew Scott, Hanoi, Vietnam

The standard of living here is much higher than I could have had in Scotland. We have a big house, nice new cars, and always have extra money to spend. I now enjoy watching ice hockey and absolutely love the hot summers and snowy winters. However, I do miss soccer, good fish suppers, real pubs, British TV, and hogmanay.
Jason Hindle, Toronto

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28 Dec 02 | Country profiles
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