By Peter Gould BBC News Online in Krakow

Polish upbringing: The young Karol Wojtyla

Polish kings and national heroes are buried within its walls.

It boasts one of the oldest universities in Europe; the great scientist and astronomer Copernicus was a student here.

Over the years, Krakow has also been home to some of the most famous names in Polish arts and literature.

Better future

But ask almost anyone to name this city's best-known former resident and the answer is immediate: Pope John Paul II.

"He is very famous, and very popular," said student Anna Plader as she handed out papal flags in Krakow's main square.

"It may be his last visit to Poland, so many people will go to see him."

Anna is only 21-years-old, so John Paul II has been the Pope for all of her life.

"For me this visit is very exciting," she said.

"He gives us something special... hope, love, maybe a better future."

Father figure

As Karol Wojtyla, he spent 40 years here as a student, parish priest, university lecturer, then archbishop of the city.

"He is very important for this country," said this bookseller

He would no doubt have been happy to remain here.

But in 1978, to the surprise of himself and the world, he was elected Pope.

In his homeland, plain Karol Wojtyla is now regarded as the father figure of the nation.

People look up to him as the man who had the courage to confront communism.

He has become a symbol of their freedom, even if the transition to a market economy has not been easy.

"He is very important for this country," said Krakow bookseller Adam Szwajcowski, standing in front of shelves stacked with papal biographies.

"A lot of people visit Poland because the Pope comes from here and they want to see the place for themselves."

Two million expected

But although he freely acknowledges the unique place of the Pope in the hearts of Polish people, Adam is one person who will not be attending the big open-air mass on Sunday.

The city has been festooned with flags

In this fervently Catholic country, he is something of a rarity... he is an atheist.

But more than two million people are expected to attend, from all over Poland and neighbouring countries.

"You can sense the excitement... people are waiting for him," said Sister Anna Helena Skalik, who is in charge of the Sisters of the Resurrection religious order in this province.

She pointed out to me the building where the Pope lived when he was archbishop of Krakow, and where he will be staying during his visit.

The police are now erecting barriers in readiness for the crowds expected to gather across the street from his room.

Joy

And the papal coat of arms, hanging from an open window, shows where he is likely to appear.

This couple saw the Pope's visit as a good omen

"All of Poland feels that John Paul II is theirs," explained Sister Anna Helena.

"He is older now, and he is sick, so this could be his last visit. But people do not want to accept that one day he will not be here."

"He is pushing himself and people are praying every day for a safe trip."

"I think he want to go back to the places that are important to him, and we want to do everything we can to give him joy."

Decorations ready

To say that the city has put out the flags for this visit is an understatement.

The Vatican colours of yellow and white are everywhere, flying alongside the red and white of Poland.

Pictures of the Pope are displayed in the windows of homes, shops and restaurants.

Walking through the cobbled streets of the old city, I saw a newly-married bride and groom, Magdalena and Tomasz, posing for photographs in front of the colourful street decorations.

The happy couple told me they had been planning their wedding for months, and had no idea the ceremony would be taking place on the eve of the Pope's arrival.

"It is a wonderful coincidence, and we consider it to be a great blessing," said the happy bride, Magdalena Buratowski.

Speculation

With good weather forecast for Sunday's open-air mass, street traders are doing good business selling sunhats, although more cautious souls are investing in rain capes.

The Vatican has denied the Pope will retire in Poland

One trader, Grzegorz Siczek, is offering yellow T-shirts bearing the Polish inscription: "We love you Holy Father".

"The Pope is a big man for us," he told me.

"He is like a father for our country. We know he is old, but nobody thinks he is going to die tomorrow... So maybe he will come back again another time."

One thing is clear. When the four-day visit ends on Monday, the Pope will be returning to Rome.

Some European papers have speculated that the Pope is planning to use this visit to announce his retirement and then remain in his homeland.

Return uncertain

The Vatican has denied the rumour, pointing out that the Pope's published itinerary clearly states that he will be returning to the Vatican.

Whether he ever returns for good to his native Poland is a question that nobody can answer.

When he was last here in 1999, many people said that because of his age and ill heath he would probably not be back.

But the Pope has proved them wrong, and now Poland is delighted.