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EducationWednesday, 21 November, 2001, 13:59 GMT
Lunch Lesson 12 - Brands
Chanel Coco Mademoiselle
Chanel has just launched a new perfume, Coco Mademoiselle, which is being promoted by model Kate Moss.

It's also opening two new concept stores in London and Paris - all part of the company's plans to promote a very 21st century Chanel. We've been behind the scenes to discover the secrets of brand success.


The House of Chanel is probably one of the world's most famous and exclusive luxury brands.

Chanel coat
The Chanel brand is about more than just perfume
The company was started in 1924 by Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel for the manufacture and distribution of her perfumes.

Seventy-seven years on the firm remains firmly under private family control.

Chanel No 5 was created in 1921 - the company claims a bottle is sold every 30 seconds somewhere in the world.

So how has the company managed to keep its fashion, perfume and jewellery brands at the top?


Competitors view Chanel as a magic brand - a superbrand which is sought after.

Antoine Colonna
Merrill Lynch analyst
Unlike its competitors, Chanel does not license its products. This means it is able to restrict supply and keep a tight hold on merchandise through the production process right through to point of sale.

The exclusivity and quality of the brand is exploited through very targeted marketing, while remaining true to the company's roots and the spirit of Coco Chanel.

It's a fine balancing act between pushing the brand with a modern approach, and risking alienating the existing clientele.

Chanel No 5
No 5 is still Europe's best-seller
The company remains intensely private - it won't tell anyone how much money it makes.

The brand is worth, so far as you can measure such things, nearly �3bn.

In the UK the fine fragrance market is worth around �360m - Chanel has more than 10% of that market. The European market is worth around �8bn.

Chanel No 5 remains the best selling fine fragrance in Europe. Allure, which is just five years old, is third on the list.


It's not just the smell that's important. You have to come up with a name that can be used in every part of the world.

Jacques Polge
Master perfumer
Chanel, unlike most of its rivals, creates its own fragrances. Jacques Polge, known as the Nose, is Chanel's third master perfumer.

He spends his working day testing fragrances on strips of filter paper.

Jacques says: "When creating a perfume like Coco Mademoiselle it's not just the smell that's important. You have to come up with a name that can be used in every part of the world, and the packaging and publicity is also crucial."

Jacques Polge
Perfumer Jacques Polge - known as The Nose
Chanel doesn't produce many fragrances. "The company strategy is not to go for novelty because if you make too many fragrances the new one simply replaces the previous one so you can't build a family of perfumes," says Jacques.

Although Chanel is not listed on the stock market, analysts like Antoine Colonna, luxury brands expert at Merrill Lynch in Paris, still keep a close eye on what the company is up to.

Antoine says: "Competitors view Chanel as a magic brand - a superbrand which is sought after."

He believes the company is well protected and its key objective is the long-term profitability of the group rather than short term revenues.

He reckons it's all about product scarcity - the company restricts supply to ensure the demand stays alive.

Key ingredients

It has maintained growth without any compromise on licensing, franchise agreements or wholesale accounts.

So what the are the key ingredients you need to create a good brand?

Chanel's UK managing director, Olivier Nicolay, says: "You need to have quality and creativity and you need to invest in the asset of the company, which in Chanel's case is the image."

Antoine Colonna
Analyst Antoine Colonna: It's all about product scarcity
He believes you also need to have a special something, which for them is Mademoiselle Chanel's spirit.

Antoine Colonna thinks a successful brand needs three key ingredients.

"The first would be the magic of the brand - which Chanel, Armani, Louis Vuitton, Hermes all have," he says.

"Secondly, you need a lot of cash, because the luxury brands business is very capital intensive. You need lots of money to be able to open directly operated boutiques.

"The third ingredient is a wonderful management team, because if you have the first two, but the management structure is too stretched then in the longer term you won't have a viable model."


Student Guide

What does Chanel mean to you?

Luxury? Refinement? Sophistication? Expensive? Coco Chanel created an image back in the 1920s. It has lasted ever since.

Success comes from everyone knowing just what Chanel means. How does it work? Why does it work?

Other businesses are very keen to get it right. It really makes a difference. It affects how much you can sell and the price you can sell it for.

What is a brand?

A brand gives a product a name with a message. Wearing Chanel perfume tells the world something about you. Wearing the clothes, carrying the handbag or driving the car with a famous name all tell the world about you.

A brand name creates an identity for the product and highlights the ways in which it is different from other products.

Just think...

What products do you use which have brand names?

What image do they create?

Why do you buy them?

Creating a brand

Businesses spend millions of pounds creating brands. How do they go about it?

  • Some brands have been around for years and kept their image
  • Some brands have been around for years and changed their image
  • Some brands are new creations

    Whatever stage the brand is at, its owner wants to ensure that it has a clear image.

    Brand image is the objective. A new brand must create an image quickly so people can identify with it.

    Have you seen adverts which catch your attention but don't tell you what they are for?

    They want to make you curious and then, on the appointed day, they reveal the secret. Its often a new product with a new brand.

    The temptation to try the product after all the build-up can be overwhelming - which is just what the business wants. It has succeeded in achieving brand awareness.

    Just think...

    Can you think of a new brand that has been launched?

    How did it happen?

    Do you think it has been successful?

    Some brands want to change their image:

  • A drink that used to mean being ill now means bursting with energy! Can you work it out?

  • A fashion brand that used to mean fuddy-duddy now means cool! Can you work it out?

  • An orange drink that used to be for little kids now means wicked! Can you work it out?

    What did these businesses do to make the change?

    Much of the change came from advertising and putting the products into the right places.

    Seeing famous people wearing your products has an effect on everyone else.

    Just think...

    Can you think of any other products that have changed their image?

    How did they do it?

    Buying again

    Selling the first product to a new customer is easy. Selling the second, third or fourth is much more difficult.

    If it's just a novelty, people will soon get bored and sales will fall off. A brand really has to have more about it. Even if it is just a name, it has to a name that people want to be seen in.

    A business needs to create brand loyalty.

    Supermarkets and petrol companies, for example, devise strategies to persuade people to keep coming back. Loyalty cards mean that you build benefits so you keep returning.

    A key principle is to make sure that the product is always available. If it's not on the shelf in the shops, the customer will try something else and may never come back.

    A brand is not therefore just a product of the marketing department. The whole business must be involved to make sure that customer service is good.

    Chanel has the creativity, invests in its product and marketing and could not succeed without good management.

    The ultimate brand value happens when people no longer refer to a product by its generic name - like saying Biro instead of pen.

    Just think...

    How do businesses keep people loyal?

    Can you think of some examples of how businesses keep the customers coming back?

    What other brand names are used instead of the product name?

    What effect does this have on sales?

    Why bother?

    The answer is simple. Creating a brand that people want means increasing profit.

    Designer jeans cost many times the price of ordinary jeans. No-one is forcing us to buy them but we still do! We must really want them.

    The image that goes with the name is one that people want.

    Designer jeans might cost a little more to make and the advertising budget is certainly higher but the gap between costs and turnover will be greater.

    The brand is helping the business to add value.

    If creating a brand helps a business to sell more, it will probably be able to produce each item more cheaply.

    A factory might not be working at full capacity so more can easily be made, with little additional cost.

    Adding brand value

    Companies which own famous names are very valuable.

    Nestl� bought Rowntree, not for its factories but for Smarties, Kit-Kat and Rolo.

    It was estimated that 83% of the price Nestl� paid for the company was for the brands.

  •  WATCH/LISTEN
     ON THIS STORY
    News image Working Lunch reports from Paris
    Adrian Chiles sniffs out the secret of brand success
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