By Peter Gould BBC News Online in Krakow

During the past three days he has been seen by more than two million of his countrymen and women.

It has been difficult to escape the feeling that this visit has been about a Pope bidding a fond farewell to the land he loves

That is about five percent of the population of the country.

But the itinerary was carefully arranged to allow him the opportunity - perhaps for the last time - to return to the places that matter most to him.

During his stay in Krakow, the Pope reclaimed his old rooms at the archbishop's palace.

The present tenant, Cardinal Franciszek Macharski, didn't seem to mind having a house guest, even if he did have some noisy visitors.

Valediction

On Sunday the Pope went to the cathedral where he said his first mass, after being ordained as a priest in 1946. Then he went to pray at the grave of his parents.

On Monday he paid a visit to a monastery that has long been one of his favourite places in Poland.

Cardinal Macharski welcomed the Pope

He hardly needed an excuse for a visit, but the shrine is this year celebrating its 400th anniversary.

Driving out to the monastery, at Kalwaria Zebrzydowska, the road was lined with tens of thousands of people.

Every town, village and hamlet had hung out the flags, and whole families waited patiently at the side of the road for the Popemobile to pass.

It has been difficult to escape the feeling that this visit has been about a Pope bidding a fond farewell to the land he loves.

And while few Poles would put such feelings into words, it has also been about a nation saying goodbye to its favourite son, a man who they believe has put a liberated nation on the map.

Of course, John Paul II could surprise and delight Poland by coming back again.

But the word "farewell" was the one used by the Pope himself last night as he acknowledged the cheers of the crowds who gathered beneath his window.

Authority

He is 82, and suffering from Parkinson's disease and painful arthritis in his legs. His mobility is now limited, and he can walk only short distances.

Wadowice hailed the town's most famous native son

Once out of the Popemobile, he is helped onto a wheeled platform. He grasps a handrail in front of him as he is gently pulled through the crowds.

His illness means that he tires quickly, and his speech becomes increasingly slurred - sometimes to the point where even Poles have difficulty understanding his words.

And yet he still manages to participate at masses that last for two to three hours, and there is no doubt that he draws strength from the love of his people.

There is talk of Poland being a less devoutly religious country these days. But on the evidence of the past three days, there are still many, many people here who look up to their Pope, and respect his moral authority.

When he used his homily on Sunday to denounce genetic engineering, and criticise the "noisy propaganda of liberalism", there was loud applause from the vast crowd.

Longevity

The reaction of Poles to his visit has been heartfelt and spontaneous. The events may have been planned meticulously, but you cannot choreograph this depth of emotion.

Two million Poles saw the Pope

After his visit to the monastery, there was another treat for the Pope. A helicopter was laid on to fly him over his home town of Wadowice, and the Tatra mountains he climbed as a young man.

Only three other popes have occupied the papal throne for longer than John Paul II.

Seeing his frail figure today, it is impossible not to remember the robust man of 58 who appeared for the first time on the balcony of St Peter's Basilica, following his surprise election in 1978.

As he travels back to Rome tonight, he may reflect on an even longer journey that has taken him from the obscurity of a small Polish town to the papacy.