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Last updated: 02 February, 2007 - Published 17:34 GMT
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Crosstown traffic

Rachael in a rickshaw
Rachael experiences the joys of New Delhi's transport
I'd been briefed about various issues to expect before I embarked on my maiden visit to Asia but nothing had prepared me for the traffic and road chaos that greeted me in New Delhi.

Auto rickshaws, motorbikes, really old buses, rickety vehicles and brand new vehicles. Yes, I've come across some bullock carts and horses on the streets of this capital.

All these combined with crowds of people either walking or just hanging around the streets gives you a visceral experience of what it feels like to live in one of the world's most populated countries.

I've regressed decades when crossing the roads - needing to have a colleague hold my hand because it is almost impossible to figure out who has the right of way.

The zebra crossings… hmmm yeah they do exist, BUT as a pedestrian you may have to wait for hours because you'll never be given the opportunity to cross.

Traffic signal anxiety

My driver, Mukesh has noted with concern the anxiety on my face every time we get on the road, particularly when driving through red traffic lights.

What he doesn't realise is that every time he is manoeuvring this city, an accident seems imminent.

 You could live in India for years and still get surprised at some of the things you see, so you either love it and keep visiting or you run away and never return
A French tourist in New Dehli

He attributes this to the fact that nobody follows the road signs otherwise, "everything will just grind to a halt" - so we just go when we can.

And by the way, all this is done in full view of the traffic enforcement officials.

Booming capital

New Dehli, the capital city of the world's fastest growing economy.

A recent report by investment bankers Goldman Sachs predicts that if the country continues at this rate, it could overtake Britain as the world's fifth largest economy.

But how does this economic growth translate in real life to the ordinary Indian in the capital?

Dilshad Khan, a hotel executive at the Jukasso Inn can feel the boom. He says it has provided Indians with employment in various sectors. And the tourism sector in which he works, is booming.

However, Mukesh, the man who has been tasked with ferrying me around this city does not fully agree.

He says it's only the rich and big corporations that are feeling the economic growth. For the poor, "its only on paper" he adds.

Well, while it may not be evident to Mukesh, the impact of the explosion of consumerism and capitalism is evident on the streets of New Delhi.

Struggling infrastructure

A Street scene in New Delhi
There is a wide gap between the rich and the poor

Brand new vehicles, very busy domestic and international airports, new buildings springing up and traffic congestion and pollution – the signs of infrastructure that is struggling to cope with this economic boom.

New Western-style shopping malls hosting brand names like Macdonalds and Nike and Levi's are surrounded by some filthy city markets; like green grass sprouting out of a burnt out savannah land.

A man parking his rickshaw by the roadside to pass urine on the street without attempting to shield himself, another driving a brand new four wheel drive vehicle with his windows fully shut.

It's these contradictions that expose the wide gap between the rich and the poor.

Like a French tourist told me on my arrival, "You could live in India for years and still get surprised at some of the things you see, so you either love it and keep visiting or you run away and never return".

I'm heading out of this country's unique and overwhelming capital city with my options open, this time to explore the southern city of Bangalore. I hope that one day I'll return.

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