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29 October 2014

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Richard Jefferies

Richard Jefferies

Richard Jefferies Swindon Walk

Walk in the footsteps of the famous Swindon born naturalist Richard Jefferies around Coate Water...

Walk continued....

The Hollow

Turn left up the path towards the steel railings. Roughly 100 meters beyond the fence is a round depression in the ground which also features in the mock war. Bevis Shot and cooked a Moorcock here by the feeder stream. The course of the stream can still be seen although the entrance is covered by the southern end of the modern bridge.

"They... found the ground almost level and so thick with sedges and grass and rushes that they walked in a forest of green up to their waists."

Richard Jefferies

Of this area Jefferies Wrote: 'Off ran Mark, Fred, Bill, and the rest, and making a little circuit, got into the bowl-like hollow. The crowd with Scipo Cecil was still thrusting Pompey and his men before them, but Ted had worked himself free by main force, and he and Val Crassus, side by side, were fighting as they were forced backwards. Step by step they went backwards, but disputing every inch, straight back for the hollow where mark and his party were crouching. In half a minute Ted would certainly be taken.' (Bevis Chapter 17)

Nature Reserve

Head back and cross the concrete bridge. This area has been a nature reserve for some 30 years but is not open to the public. Pay close attention and you may be treated to a heron or any of the numerous wildfowl that this successful project has kept in the area. Head across the bridge and turn left, at the south end, following signs for Hodson. The course of the old canal feeder stream is by trees on the right of the path. Continue on this path and you shall enjoy large oak trees as Jefferies would have done, roughly 50 meters from the bridge.

A historic shot of Coate Water

A historic shot of Coate Water

Cicely's Bridge

Continue further and, 260 meters from the bridge, you will reach an opening in the trees. Here you will find an old brick bridge spanning a dry stream bed. This brick bridge is known as Cicely's Bridge after a character in 'Round About in a Great Estate': 'On entering a gateway you will find a bridge over a brook which for some distance flows with a hedge on either side The low parapet of the bridge affords a seat… As the brook is straight the eyes can see under these a long way up: and presently a kingfisher, bright and azure and ruddy hues, comes down the brook, flying just above the surface…'. (Round About in a Great Estate)

Head back towards the concrete bridge, continuing with the path next to the lakeside, shortly you will reach an area which to Jefferies would have been a swamp, almost impossible to travel through: 'They Travelled on someway and found the ground almost level and so thick with sedges and grass and rushes that they walked in a forest of green up to their waists. The water was a long way off beyond the weeds. They tried to go down to it, but the ground got very soft and their feet sank into it, it was covered in horsetails there, acres and acres of them, and after these shallow water hidden among floating weed.' (Bevis chapter 5)

Broome Manor Lane

With hopefully better results than the young Jefferies, continue along the footpath that crosses the wooden bridge and brings you to Broome Manor Lane. Here you will find another nature reserve in the woodland area. Glance towards your right and you will see Coate Water and a distant quarry through the trees. Cross another small wooden bridge and follow the main path round to the right. After roughly 30 meters bear right onto what can be a muddy track through the woods which then opens into a small bay after 40 meters.

A historic shot of Coate Water

A historic shot of Coate Water

At the southern end you will find a large sarsen boulder although the treasure, mentioned by Jefferies in Bevis, has been long discovered: 'Bevis wanted to explore the waste, and especially to look at the great gray boulder, and so went on and landed among the sedges… the ponderous stone was smooth, as if it had been ground with emery, and there were little circular basins or cups drilled in it. With a stick Bevis felt all around and came to a place where stick could be pushed two or three feet under the stone… "this is where the treasure is", And the serpent and the magic lamp that has been burning for ages and ages…'. (Bevis Chapter 42)

The Island

Having dealt with the serpent and found the remaining treasure, go back to the path and head north. You will see a golf course to your left that would have been cornfields when Jefferies was wandering the area. Still intact are the ash trees that Jefferies would have known, although they are now older and bolder. This path enters an area of younger lime trees beyond these is a narrow track through nettles and brambles. Here you can see the island that the boys camped out on in Bevis, although now it is overgrown and bears little resemblance to the idyllic setting Jefferies has offered us.
More golf… this time you need to pass through the crazy golf course and the Pitch and Putt on the main path. On the north side of the lake are some toilets and a café for a well deserved rest and cuppa.

There is a large man-made hill north west of the car park, if you still have the energy it's worth climbing to the top of this as there is a bronze directional plate indicating various features in the landscape important to Jefferies and his texts.

If you require any more information on the area, the Rangers Centre in the main car park has a small exhibition of the history of Coate Water as well as information regarding local events.

last updated: 13/03/2008 at 15:35
created: 27/07/2006

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Richard Jefferies Society
If you would like to visit Richard Jefferies' home, now a museum, it is open on the second Wednesday of the month from 10am-4pm throughout the year and the first and third Sundays from 2-5pm from May to September inclusive.

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