Fact Sheet Twenty Three download here
THE GARDENERS DIARY
WEEK 23
6th March 2005
THE DIARY
HOW TO SOW HERBS INTO POTS
1. Fill 9cm pots with relevant compost to the lip about half an inch form the top. 2. Then using the bottom of another pot just push down gently to slightly compact the compost. 3. Give the pot a light tap with both hands. 4. Open the seed packet carefully giving it a little shake before hand to make sure all seeds are at the bottom of the packet. 5. With 20-30 seeds in the palm of your hand scatter them into the compost and loosely cover with some more compost. 6. Make sure the compost you use to cover the seeds has not got any lumps in it. You can do this by using a sieve or with some compost in the palm of your hand just rub your hands together over the pot. 7. Water and make sure you label your pots. 8. Once you have planted your seeds this is what to do with them: PARSLEY: Kept in the greenhouse heated or unheated.
BASIL: A bit of bottom heat to get them started then put on kitchen windowsill.
CORIANDER: Harden off in the greenhouse before putting it into the vegetable plot.
CHERVIL: As coriander. 9. There are many other herbs you could try and most should have instructions on the packets. 10. Have fun. HOW TO PLANT CARROTS AND PARSNIPS IN A TROUGH 1. Although we used an old horse trough the same rules apply for any planting of this type. 2. Make sure trough is filled with a mixture of good soil and organic matter. 3. Depending on the size of trough make drills (little trenches) in the soil about 10 inches apart and around 2-3 cm deep. 4. If you are planting carrot seeds evenly scatter a handful of seeds in each drill 5. If it's parsnip then sow a bit thinner. 6. As the seeds grow we'll be pulling some out to thin the crop down so listen out for guidance on this in future programmes 7. Cover the seeds with soil and water. 8. Easy isn't it. You'll have beautiful veg before you know it. THE DIARY
THE FLOWER GARDEN: Give young trees some support.
We have already touched on this on The Gardeners Diary in previous shows but it is still relevant. Newly planted trees should be secured with some support.
Tree stakes should be knocked into place depending on the size and tree type
On containerised trees try and use a stake which is not going to impose on the look of the plant.
Place the stake at a 45 degree angle away from the plant. Never place the stake through the root ball as this could cause irreparable damage to the root system.
Once the stake is in position place the ties onto the tree securing the stem to the stake.
To prevent the tie slipping down the trunk and stake nail the tie to the support with a felt tack.
A great idea is to use old tights to hold your trees in place. It worked for us. They offer support and allow the tree to move around in the wind without chaffing.
Place rabbit and scratch guards into position and as prevention apply some fruit tree grease around the stem of your tree and stake to stop pests crawling up.
Recently it has become common practice to place a shorter stake nearer to the base on the plant. This is said to strengthen the main stem though only use this method in sheltered areas and not in exposed windy districts. THE GREENHOUSE: Take Cuttings.
As plants develop and grow in the greenhouse they may need pinching back to encourage bushiness.
These growths can be used for cutting material
Plant the cuttings in a small pot with some hormone power or compost.
Plants such as geraniums and fuchsias can easily strike and will increase your stocks.
THE VEGETABLE PLOT: Feed areas ready for leaf crops.
Areas which are going to be used for consecutive crops of leaf vegetables such as cabbage, lettuce etc should be fed with a granular high nitrogen feed like sulphate of ammonia.
Top dress the soil with about 70 grams per square metre and ensure there is plenty of organic matter to stop the feed leaching into the soil
With plenty of organic matter the feed should remain connected to your soil particles. LAWN CARE: Limit the cutting height. With lawns now needing attention one thing to remember is that the first cut should only remove the top of the turf.
If you cut to close at the moment you could cause some severe yellowing.
Wait for the lawn to completely dry off and try and limit yourself to only two cuts this month. PEST PROBLEM OF THE WEEK: Vine Weevil damage on evergreens. Whilst tidying up in the garden you may well notice on evergreens like Cherry Laurels, rhododendrons etc. that the edges of the plants foliage will be gnawed at the edges and at a closer look there will be no sign of any insect present on the plant.
This damage will be caused by Adult Vine Weevils.
Adult Vine Weevils are nocturnal feeders so spraying during the day will be pointless and with ground frosts at night prevention can be difficult. Though if there is a mild evening make a mixture of a general purpose insecticide and spray the infected plant.
If the attack has been on a containerised plant then it could be sign that the adults have laid their eggs in your containers where the larvae feed on the roots of your plants. This can mean irreparable damage causing the plant to grow weakly and slowly and eventually die back.
Help is now at hand with chemicals like available Provado which contains imidacloprid.
This Vine Weevil Killer can be applied to all containerised plants not only as a cure but also as prevention. The chemical can take 1-2 weeks before it takes full effect but once it has it will give you 6 months prevention on soil born pests and up to 1 month's protection on leaf pests.
Prevention on your containers is also to apply some insect barrier glue around each pot you wish to protect.
Also nematodes are available that are small microscopic parasites that eat the adults and larvae from the inside outwards. It sounds gruesome and something from a science fiction film but is ideal if you are growing everything organically! Listen to The Gardener's Diary with Luke Ashmead on BBC Three Counties Radio every Sunday afternoon at 2.00pm Contact The Gardener's Diary Here BBC Three Counties Radio 94.7, 98, 103.8, 95.5 and 104.5FM | 
