Fact Sheet Four - Download here THE GARDENERS DIARY
WEEK 4
17 October 2004
HOW TO:
PLANTING YOUR FRUIT TREES: The first thing you need to do is choose where you want to put the tree. It 's fine to put your tree anywhere really but it will need support so we chose to plant it next to a fence post so we can use the post to keep the tree upright and sturdy. If you are planning to plant your tree in the open you might need to use a stake to secure it. Try putting the stake into the ground at a 45 degree angle so as not to affect the roots. You could also use two stakes either side of the tree and one going across in a crossbar style this will also ensure you don't affect the roots. Be aware that certain trees will need to be cross pollinated. This means that particular pear trees will need to have another variety of pear tree close by. e.g. If you have a conference pear tree it might be that you would need a Williams variety to pollinate it. In built up areas it is possible that there is already one of these trees close by but be aware of this. Dig a hole roughly twice the depth of the pot that the tree comes in making sure there is enough space in the hole for the width of the root ball. While digging out your hole add some compost to the soil that is coming out. Most garden centres will have compost especially for tree and shrub planting. Mixing the soil that is coming out with compost means that when you come to putting the soil back over the roots of the tree it will be full of goodness. Once the hole is dug put some compost in the base of the hole and then simply put the tree into the centre of the hole adding the already mixed soil back over the roots. Compact the soil around the base of the tree with your foot and water lightly. Make sure the tree is secure. You can do this by attaching the tree to your post, stake or frame using ties.
THE DIARY
Remove tufts of coarse grass. Dig out areas of coarse grass, use a turfing iron or spade to cut around the tufts. Lift these out and dispose of them. Fill in the holes with some topsoil and apply a bit of grass seed. (see fact sheet 3) This will be slow to germinate but will establish over the winter months and be ready for the first cut in spring. Larger areas may need more attention and it might be easier to re-lay with some fresh turf. Keep an eye on the night temperature. We've already mentioned this in fact sheet 2 but it's worth mentioning again. If you're over-wintering half-hardy bedding plants in your greenhouse it is worth using a greenhouse heater. Electric heaters should be well dusted down and use a vacuum to hoover out the dust from the fan and grill. Also ensure that the thermostat works correctly. Gas fires are best checked by a qualified engineer and if it is a portable heater using cylinders make sure that you have enough gas to see you through each night. Paraffin heaters should have new wicks fitted and ensure that you have enough kerosene to see you through each night. At night you want to be keeping the frost at bay and do not allow the greenhouse temperature to go lower than 10'C. Time running out for Other Jobs...
Your lawn needs its last cut. Don't forget to raise the cut on your lawnmower. Hedges should also have a final cut. Try and give them a rounded top to avoid snow disrupting the shape of the hedge during the winter months. Save your summer bedding plants. See fact sheet 2 for instructions. If you haven't done theses jobs by now
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