Crowds pack into Flemington on Cup day

For some, it always is.

Though it may be mathematically impossible for the entire Melbourne populace to be trackside, standing in line to place a bet or visit the toilet you would swear everyone was.

The day itself, hustle and bustle and garishly colourful, provides a curious contrast to the uncomplicated Australian way of life.

Indeed, for a country proud of its wide open spaces, the stifled atmosphere of Cup day at the races is a striking one-off and seemingly enough for all involved to not want to go through it again for another year.

Weekly racegoers are replaced by their once-a-year counterparts, hardened punters by revellers. Jeans and t-shirts make way for suits and gowns, and alcohol flows.

Beer monster

This year's race on 6 November will be a day of hedonism and hats, of fashion shows and celebrities.

The equine supporting acts for the Group One Melbourne Cup are traditionally weak - the Cup is the only pattern race on the card - but despite its international reputation as Australia's greatest race, it has never really been about horse racing.

Which is just as well, really. If you want to see or hear the Cup, Flemington is not the place to be.

As the rest of the nation religiously honours two miles of silence, some parts of the racecourse remain blissfully unaware that the race has even been run.

John Marshall celebrates his 1999 Cup win on Rogan Josh

It is no coincidence that the Cup's new major sponsor - Tooheys, an Aussie beer-making company - succeeded Fosters, another beer monster.

Brew, surely the omen tip of all-time for a boutique race like the Melbourne Cup, prevailed in the 2000 renewal and provided the sentimental element with a reason to shout well into the night.

It seemed a natural progression after Rogan Josh had put his nose in front in 1999.

Much has changed about the Cup since its 1860 inception, conceived more from rivalry between the host state and New South Wales than from a vision to inaugurate something that would become as iconic to Australia as the kangaroo.

But much remains unaltered and should remain so for a long time to come.

With public support showing no signs of fraying, the once-a-year carnival that it is the Melbourne Cup will hold its place in Australian culture as sure as an empty office in Melbourne on the first Tuesday in November.