Nigella and Delia have taught us how to cook delicious food and run the perfect kitchen - but now it's time for the backlash against the domestic goddess.
Do we really need to spend all day shopping at Italian-style delis for cold-pressed olive oil fresh from Umbria, or can we make do perfectly well with sliced bread and a sandwich toaster?
Victoria Isherwood stands up for the slatterns and Ruth Rogers of the River Cafe restaurant fights the clean corner. Jenni umpires.
