Italy and Austria

Insight, wit and analysis from writers and reporters around the world - introduced by Pascale Harter. In this edition, two despatches from beautiful places with delicious food - but our correspondents find their enjoyment is incomplete.

Sabotaged by sinusitis

The town of Portonovo, on Italy's Adriatic coast, is not just appealing to look at. It's also one of the few places where you can eat a renowned delicacy: moscioli, or wild mussels. Dany Mitzman, a keen foodie, was extremely keen to try them - but found that her visit was rendered insipid by a badly-timed loss of her senses of smell and taste.

Viennese whinge

On the face of it, residents of Vienna have things pretty good. The streets are clean and safe, the cultural life is vibrant, and the taps run with pure mineral water from the Alps. But are its people satisfied? Not a bit of it. Bethany Bell explains that this is one European city where grumbling is so rife it's practically required - and there's even a special word for it.