Turkish Delights

First stop was a helpful travel agent. He set out to find us a holiday in short walking distance of the beach, bars and restaurants. We'd chosen the resort of Altinkum in Turkey because it is a compact resort with a reputation for golden beaches. Finally, he came up trumps and found a hotel at the centre of the resort, not listed as unsuitable for those with mobility restrictions, and with a lift. So far, so cheap!

On arrival at the resort, seeing the azure sea blend into the cloudless sky through my sleepy eyes was a truly magical moment. Less so was spotting the steps up to our hotel's entrance. Lesson number one: make sure your travel agent rings the holiday company when booking to double check that there's nothing left out of the hotel's description in the brochure. But what the hotel lacked in ramps, it made up for in helpfulness and enthusiasm. The staff rushed to help me with the steps - while the friend I was travelling with is fortunately no stranger to heaving my walking frame up hills.

Friendliness is a quality that flowed in abundance in Altinkum. Locals chatted and offered advice on what to see and where to go, and fellow tourists who probably wouldn't dream of striking up a conversation on the tube offered to share a table at dinner. At 90 degrees, with the sun permanently shining, the resort's balmy atmosphere makes a great mood enhancer.

It was easy to while away a few days on the beach, strolling along the concrete paved seafront to the second, less crowded bay, and enjoying the nightlife in the evening. After sampling the Turkish cuisine, it was time to try out another local speciality - the Turkish bath. First off was a sauna, then we were beckoned into a wet room. Lying on a tiled slab, I was roughly scrubbed down with a flannel by a man wearing only a towel wrapped round his waist, who bore an uncanny resemblance to Manuel in Fawlty Towers. Now, I realise that being scrubbed down by a scantily-clad Manuel may be some people's ideal daydream to while away a tedious Friday afternoon, but it's certainly not one that's ever occurred to me. My friend failed miserably in hiding her hilarity at the expression on my face when Manuel rubbed under my bikini straps, covered me in foam, scrubbed my hair and behind my ears in a manner I haven't experienced since I was five years-old, then threw a few buckets of water over me for good measure. At least the guy in the 'relaxation room', where the oil massage took place, had his trousers on. But strangely enough, that evening my skin felt fantastic, even if I'll never be able to watch Fawlty Towers in the same light again ...

Altinkum is a good base for exploring the local area. Would my package holiday leave me resort-bound or would Turkey prove to be a physically easy country to get around? Turkey is lobbying to become a member of the European Union. Locals told me they see their nation as self-sufficient, with its own cultural identity - although they do concede that EU membership and its subsidies would benefit the poor, whom tourists rarely see. I wondered whether it would also benefit the country's disabled people, of whom I saw none during my visit. In the resort there were a few stomach-churningly steep ramps, but as a rule the country makes little disability provision.

The cheapest way to get around is to take a ride on the dolmus - a minibus that in busy times tries to emulate the world record for the number of people who can be squashed into a moving vehicle. But we went for the slightly more expensive (at £29 a day) but more accessible option of a hire car. Our trips to a local market and a village in the hills were easy. Then we decided to visit Ephesus, the ruins of an ancient city that was home to the Temple of Artemis, one of the seven wonders of the world. Lesson number two: ancient doesn't equal accessible. It's a steep walk from one end of Ephesus to the other, and those not so sprightly on their feet (including me) jostled for the easiest route downhill, avoiding rubble and large steps. Yet the pain was certainly worth the gain.

What's amazing about Ephesus isn't just the partly reconstructed ruins - including the library, temples and even toilets - which whisper the stories of people's lives two thousand years ago, but also that the authorities allow you to get so close to them. The stone steps underfoot are the very same ones that the ancient Ephesians walked on - and the carved ruins provide a handy seat to take a breather from the hot sun. It is definitely worth a break from the beach to feel the foundations of a civilization gone by.

So can a cheap, mass-market holiday fit disability requirements? I learnt that it's all in the preparation. I came up trumps with the price (under £300) and the resort, but should have done more homework on the hotel. It was possible to explore the area, but not everything the guidebook lists as a 'must see' is easy. On balance, I'd go back to Turkey as fast as you can say "Foam me up, Manuel". With some careful planning and a helpful travel agent, a cheap package holiday for disabled travellers need not necessarily be a turkey.