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24 September 2014
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Our Reg solves your gardening questions
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Reg Moule is here to answer your gardening questions.

Reg Moule has been solving BBC Radio Gloucestershire listeners' gardening problems for years.

Here are some more questions he has answered for online readers.

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Questions and answers from Reg Moule:

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How can I prevent or control rust on campanula glomerata superba?
Nina Jones - Tewkesbury


This is a tricky job as rusts are difficult to control. Collect up the dead stems and foliage at the end of the season and dispose of it in the dustbin rather than composting it.

You could water the soil around the base of the plant with Armillatox during the winter in order to kill any over wintering spores.

Next spring as soon as the foliage opens out treat it with either Bio Systhane Fungus Fighter or Dithane 945 repeating the dose at least twicw at 10 day intervals.

It is a bit of an uphill task but if you give it a go and maybe do more fungicicde sprays over the growing season you could well improve the situation.

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When should I trim my cypress leylandii hedge? It's four years old and I want to achieve a formal hedge.
Roy Beck - Stamford, Lincs


Leylandii need regular trimming at least twice a year if not three times, especially the sides so that it does not spread too much Do it in May, July and September.

Allow the top to grow about 45cm taller than you would like and then cut it back down to 15 cm lower than you require. This will then regrow more bushily so that you end up with a square, thicher top to the hedge when trimmed at the final height.

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I sowed grass seed two weeks ago, so when you do your first cut?
I dont know much about sewing grass seed. Ingrid - Shetland Isles


Allow the grass to grow well for while until it is well established and about 10 to 12 cm tall. Then give it a light mowing over just taking about half the height off it.

Subsequent mowing will depend on the weather conditions but if it remains mild and the grass keeps growing well do not be afraid to give it a light mowing over the winter period.

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I planted two Armandi clematis in May that have been growing well until recently. Despite regular watering, new leaves and shoots appear to be wilting and dying off. A neighbour has suggested the problem may be due to vine weevil. I have treated both plants with Bio Provado solution. Would appreciate your advice.
Steve Smith - Cheltenham


I think that your plants could be having trouble establishing themselves in the new surroundings. They would like to be in a sheltered position out of strong winds, which can blow the stems around and make them split and so prevent the movement of food and water arouind the plant.

I would cut the stems back by about one third to a half and spray the foliage with Dithane 945.

Next spring new growth will appear and if the plants are fed with rose fertiliser om March this should perk things up. If you feel that they are in a too exposed position then you could move them between now and Early March.

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I have a Leylandii hedge which has brown patches and lots of cobwebs which I am told is caused by red spider mite and should be sprayed with Malathion. I am unable to obtain Malathion - can you suggest an alternative and the best time to spray it?
Derek Tuckey - Withington


Yes I'm afraid that Malathion has now been taken off the market the best alternative at the moment is Scotts Bug Clear.

Spray with this as soon as possible and repeat it at 10 day intervals three times. Also spraying plain water up into the affected areas will also help as these mites love warm dry conditions and hate getting wet.

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I planted some raspberry canes in early spring after I had kept them in their garden-centre polybags over winter - not the thing to do I know, but most of them have survived! Now the lower leaves of many of the plants have a chlorosis between the veins. I think this is induced by the relatively high pH of the soil - 7.5. Is this likely to be a correct solution, and if so, what can I do to rectify the problem?
I have spread ericaceous peat as a mulch around the plants, but after six weeks the chlorosis is still present.

Mike Workman - Badgeworth, Cheltenham


I think that your diagnosis is correct. The best treatment is to apply sequestered iron either a liquid feed or by an application of sequesterene granules.

Really I think that a liquid feed would be the best route as this will have a more rapid effect.

A good long term way to lower the pH would br to dress the area with sulphur chips. These are bought as Chempak Sulphur, or Greenacres Supplies Balance pH.

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