Sunday 27th April 2003

Well it is Easter Sunday in Addis.

Easter here is one week later than the one suggested on the calendar that I bought with me.

The holiday conforms to the Orthodox Christian calendar.

It is a very interesting time in Ethiopia. Most people have been fasting for 56 days and today is the day that the fasting ends.

As you can imagine, everyone has been waiting for the feasting to begin.

Needless to say the Ethiopian people don’t go for Easter Eggs.

Easter here is celebrated by the slaughter of cattle, sheep, chickens, you name it, almost anything's fair game.

During the fasting period all of the butcher’s shops are closed, all of the Tibs (roast meat) houses are empty and you only see fasting food on the menu.

However, on Friday things began to change and you sensed people starting to go potty for meat.

The street traders were laden with chickens for sale. Some stood by huge trailers full of chickens, some had huge basket type "hats" full of chickens.

Just about everyone walked along with at least one traumatised chicken tucked under each arm.

Apart from the chickens there were plenty of sheep and goats for sale too. Flocks were tethered to poles. You sort of wander along and take your pick.

Line taxis are to be avoided unless you want chickens flapping around your head. You may even find yourself sharing a taxi with a couple of sheep.

If you see a sheep or a goat in a taxi then it is most definitely one of the lucky ones. Most are trussed and tied to the luggage rack.

Almost every compound has a sheep or goat cutting the grass for a couple of days. I am keeping a low profile today because I don’t want to see animals slaughtered.

I have become a vegetarian since living here. I’m not particularly squeamish. Just wonder about the hygiene. There really are no regulations and I want to stay as healthy as I can.

For the feasting they will cook a variety of dishes. One of the famous ones is called Doro Wot. This is a spicy chicken stew garnished with hard boiled eggs. It takes anything up to 24 hours to prepare.

The chicken is cut up into 13 pieces. It is then ceremonially washed (for hours apparently). It is then left to soak in lemon juice. Then it is washed again.

It is then cooked very slowly with all of the spices. I’ve no idea when the eggs are added. It is one of the few Ethiopian dishes that I actually find edible. I’ve been told that everyone who has been fasting now takes the opportunity to gorge themselves and they just eat and eat and eat.

Although Monday is not an official public holiday few people actually turn up for work. Apparently they spend most of the day being sick.

Sounds horrible doesn’t it? I’m going to make do with peppered potatoes, tomatoes with garlic and onions and fruit salad for afters.

Till next time

Lin
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Take a look here for previous diary