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Last Updated: Friday, 17 March 2006, 09:11 GMT
Soldiers prepare for Everest bid
by Emma Carson
BBC News, East Midlands

Dave Bunting
Dave Bunting said planning had been meticulous
A Derbyshire soldier is leading 21 Army mountaineers who want to become the first Britons to conquer Everest via its notorious West Ridge.

Dave Bunting, 37, from Alderwasley, had the original idea back in May 2003.

His friend Leigh Woodhouse, 37, also from Alderwasley, flies out to Katmandu in the advance party on Friday.

Just 19 climbers have conquered the West Ridge - and two previous armed forces attempts failed by just a few hundred metres.

The first ascent of the Everest West Ridge was in 1963 by Americans Willi Unsoeld and Tom Hornbein.

The West Ridge is a steep and narrow ridge of rock where climbers are exposed to high winds for the entire route.

The sting in the tail is that you're at high altitude for a lot longer and your body is in decline for a longer period
Leigh Woodhouse

The risk of avalanche, coupled with its steepness, means that the West Ridge remains one of Everest's hardest routes.

Of the estimated 2,249 people who have climbed the mountain since it was first conquered, fewer than 20 have done so via the West Ridge.

Dave Bunting's main team will fly out on 22 March and begin their 29,029ft (8,848m) climb in the beginning of April.

He said the training had been in progress since he got the idea to tackle the West Ridge back in May 2003.

A number of soldiers started the training programme but the final 21 were not selected until early 2005.

Jude Humphries
Jude Humphries is the only woman on the team

Warrant Officer Bunting said the route appealed partly because it had never had a successful British ascent, but also because it was impossible to do it alone.

Psychologically the West Ridge is challenging because the climbers can see the entire route from before even arriving at base camp and throughout their entire journey, which is expected to last around eight weeks.

Fellow mountaineer Major Dave Wilson, 40, originally from Rutland, said: "It's unlike the normal commercial routes, where sherpas and guides will put things up for you.

"The Army way of doing it is to start from scratch and do it all yourselves.

"The sting in the tail is that you're at high altitude for a lot longer and your body is in decline for a longer period," added Leigh Woodhouse.

The one thing we can't predict is how each person's going to acclimatise
John O'Hara, Leeds Metropolitan University

"If you're going to put yourself in harm's way, and stick your neck out, then the best way to do that is by surrounding yourself with competent people who are motivated like you are and it is that which sticks in the psyche."

Warrant Officer Jude Humphries, 37, from Pateley Bridge in North Yorkshire, is the only woman on the team.

"Everest has been a dream for a long time, since I've been small. But particularly Everest - it's got a magnetic attraction," she said.

"I'll draw on previous experiences, the highest I've been is 7,000 metres on previous Himalayan expeditions and although it's tough I've have been conditioned and trained up to become mentally robust - that's what the military do to us."

Rigorous training

Their exacting physical stamina training involved walking carrying a heavy rucksack, mountain biking, running, cycling and swimming.

The mountaineers have enlisted the expertise of sports scientists at Leeds Metropolitan University's Carnegie Research Institute and UK triathlon coach Chips Rafferty compiled a training programme for each climber.

A lot of the physical preparation focused on making each climber's lung power more efficient.

"At altitude they're going to suffer because the air's very thin and the one thing we can't predict is how each person's going to acclimatise," said senior lecturer John O'Hara.

Dave Bunting said every aspect of the trip had been meticulously planned.


SEE ALSO:
Friends prepare for Everest trip
29 Dec 05 |  Derbyshire
Yorkshire soldiers in Everest bid
10 Nov 05 |  North Yorkshire


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