Ryan Dilley BBC News Online

The King's Road in Chelsea on the morning of a World Cup grudge match between England and Argentina is not the sort of place you would expect much of a welcome for those backing Marcelo Bielsa's boys.

...something borrowed, something for the lads

All the road's pubs - and even its posh shops - are decked out in England flags. Nor is there any relief from World Cup fever on the steps of Chelsea register office.

"Can you hide the England logo on the tie?" the photographer asks newly-weds Kerry and Sasha Sharland.

"I'm gutted," says Mr Sharland, "I thought it was an early kick-off, so I could watch the game and then get married. I got it wrong."

Louis two-shirts

England fans have not had it all their way though, one Argentine fan has struck a defiant blow by scrawling across a discarded newspaper urging on the England team: "Las Malvinas son Argentinas."

While spirits are high amongst the Argentine supporters gathering at El Gaucho restaurant - just off of the King's Road - there's no sign of any jingoism.

One in the eye for England

Owner Louis Seygas lifts his blue and white Argentina shirt to reveal a red England strip beneath: "It's in case Argentina lose, then I'll change sides."

As the first bottles of Quilmes beer are downed, Alex Fubini admits that he's been getting some good-natured teasing from his English colleagues about this important game.

"This is a massive match. It's been built up a lot, but it's not just media hype. If Argentina lose I'll never hear the end of it."

Paula Jakobsen is in the same boat. "I hang around with English people and am used to being made fun of, but I couldn't watch this game in an English pub."

Noisy, noisy fans

It immediately becomes apparent why as the El Gaucho erupts into song as the TV coverage begins and the teams step onto Sapporo's pitch.

"It's hard to translate," says Ms Jakobsen over the din, "it's something like 'Let's go Argentina, your noisy, noisy fans are going to support you'."

Mr Seygas's strip tease

The assembled fans - most sporting Maradona shirts - switch to another chant as the game kicks off. It ends in a frantic pogoing dance. A few nearby England fans look on slightly bemused, wracking their brains for a suitable terrace retort.

"We're singing 'The one who doesn't jump is an Englishman'," they are told.

The mood remains boisterous as the first half unfolds. "He's worried about his hair," cries one woman as David Beckham appeals to the ref for a free kick.

Shot down

But as Michael Owen clouts the Argentine goalpost with an almighty shot, the crowd at El Gaucho noticeably quieten. Beckham's successful penalty takes all the heart out of their singing.

Half-time sees more Quilmes beers lined up, but it appears it's the alcohol's anaesthetic effect the fans now desire.

It's not just England fans celebrating

Fernanda Cardoso is one of the few happy faces around the TV. As a Brazilian, she says seeing Argentina go one-nil down is exactly what she'd hoped for.

"I support England because I live here. I hate Argentina. The only reason I'm watching the game here is because my Chilean housemate supports Argentina. She's sick."

As play resumes, Francisco Guemes holds behind his back the blue and white jester's hat he wore so proudly earlier on. "It's a bit much to wear it now."

Not even the arrival of a Maradona lookalike - think Benny from Crossroads with shades on - can restore the crowd's former ebullience.

Ya dejaron de cantar

The final whistle brings magnanimity from the disappointed. "Congratulations. England deserved to win," says Caroline Perkin, "it should have been three nil."

Dinny Konig, a waiter at a neighbouring restaurant and the only person in an England red shirt, is in no mood to offer quarter to this defeated foe.

Maradona's hand in

"I kept quiet all week since the Sweden game. The El Gaucho lot have been having a go at me. Now it's my turn."

Mr Konig isn't the only one lapping up the England victory, Alex Fubini is already fielding calls from his triumphant workmates. "At least we haven't been disqualified," he says into his mobile.

"Disappointed? What do you reckon?" says a dejected Paula Jakobsen. "My friends have already been texting me. I'm glad I'm here with other Argentines, if I was alone it would be more difficult to get over what just happened."