Nagaland, in India's remote north-east, goes to the polls on Wednesday amid hopes of a peaceful end to a long-running separatist campaign in the state. The rebels have been accused of unleashing 'terror' |
For the past six years, a powerful Naga rebel group has been negotiating with Delhi for a final settlement to address their concerns. Two top rebel leaders, Issac Chisi Swu and Thuingaleng Muivah, visited Delhi last month in a display of commitment to the peace process that many say is changing the face of the violence-hit state.
Noisy slogans, aggressive graffiti and election-time violence, so common to Indian ballot-box democracy, used to be alien to Naga society.
But that is no longer the case.
Guerrilla war
Fifty years ago, many of the state's tribal warriors refused to join an independent India.
We are reaping the dividends of peace  Neingulo Krome Human Rights activist |
They headed for the jungles and unleashed a fierce guerrilla campaign for independence. India responded with military operations and political concessions, giving the Naga Hills, then part of the neighbouring state of Assam, full fledged statehood within India.
That did not satisfy hardline Nagas, like the leaders of the once-outlawed National Socialist Council of Nagaland (NSCN).
But much has changed since the rebels fired the first shots of defiance in 1956.
"A civil society has emerged, people have begun speaking up and we are reaping the dividends of peace. Democratic institutions are striking roots and the power of the uniform is coming to an end," said Neingulo Krome, chairman of the Naga People's Movement for Human Rights.
Students, human rights and gender activists, tribal elders and political workers are all talking of the "peace dividend", determined to ensure that the peace process leads to a solution.
"We are so happy to be spared the frightening knock on the door at midnight. So many of us were taken away, never to return," says student leader VP Khinso.
Under fire
Naga society, made up of more than 20 tribes, has been hit by violence for far too long.
Both the Indian army and the rebels enforced their writ through the barrel of the gun. The blood-letting left thousands of people dead on both sides.
Elections organised by Delhi were first reduced to a farce with few voting.
In later years money and intimidation ensured higher turnouts but regardless of who ruled Nagaland, the conflict festered.
Efforts to start talks repeatedly failed and ceasefires between Indian forces and Naga rebels broke down.
But the present ceasefire has held for nearly six years now.
So many of us were taken away, never to return  VP Khinso student activist |
The NSCN has committed to end fighting, if not give up their weapons. They say the elections do not concern them as long as they do not interfere with the negotiations.
Uneasy truce
But Nagaland's ruling Congress, headed by veteran Chief Minister SC Jamir, alleges that the NSCN has unleashed a campaign of terror to ensure the defeat of his party.
 The Congress has protested against the NSCN |
The NSCN denies the allegations but this is where the trouble begins and peace begins to wear thin.
"We want a solution, not elections because the status of Nagaland is the subject of negotiations between us and Delhi," says Rh Raishing, a senior NSCN leader negotiating with the Indian Government.
"If Jamir starts unnecessary provocation, we are bound to react," he adds.
The chief minister is worried about losing the elections after more than a decade in power and is concerned that the rebels are intimidating voters.
His Congress Party is up against the regional Democratic Alliance of Nagaland for the 60 seats in the state assembly, but it appears that the fight is a contest between the Congress and the NSCN.
With other issues taking a back seat to the peace process in this election, resumption of violence in a repeat of their recent history is what Nagas fear most.