We oppose the new Western clothes that have invaded this country and the hairstyles and also the tradition we see among the youth of smoking and drinking liquor

Islamist MP

But instead, Kuwaiti society is now being pulled in opposite directions, one traditional, one liberal.

Take for example a colourful Lebanese cultural dance troupe. To most Western-educated, well-travelled Kuwaitis, it is a harmless cultural show.

The women keep their clothes on and the music is distinctly Arab.

But to Kuwait's devout Islamists, this hip-swivelling dance show is exactly the sort of imported culture they want to see banned.

At night-time gatherings and in the all-male parliament, they rail against almost any form of entertainment.

They believe it encourages young people to lose their inhibitions, leading to forbidden sex between unmarried couples.

Conservative society

The Islamist MP, Waleed Tabtabai, is leading the drive to resist what he sees as the Westernisation of Kuwait.

The emir's decree on votes for women was vetoed by parliament

"We as Islamic parties oppose the Western behaviour in this community, like the women voting and the western concert music that we see," he said.

"Also we oppose the new Western clothes that have invaded this country and the hairstyles and also the tradition we see among the youth of smoking and drinking liquor."

It is clear that for all its oil wealth and advanced technology, Kuwait is still largely a conservative, Islamic society.

That might come as a disappointment to those in the West who expected this country to open up after the Gulf War.

After all, goes the Western thinking, more than half a million Americans and Britons risked their lives to save Kuwait.

Surely this Gulf state should repay the favour by giving full democracy to its people.

Women denied vote

But ironically, it is not the government that is keeping women out of politics.

Two years ago the ruling emir decreed that women could both vote and stand for office.

The powerful all-male parliament voted it down, by just two votes.

Yet women political campaigners, like Kuwait University Professor Lubna Al-Qadi, think time is on their side.

"I think Kuwaiti women have advanced in many fields," she said.

"They are highly educated. They are also participating in the economy of the country, whether it is in international organisations where they represent Kuwait as an ambassador or other agencies.

"But, however, there is one other area that is closely linked to the progress of the country, which is the political participation, which we hope to achieve in the near future."

Kuwait since the Gulf War has embraced many of the trappings of the West.

Fast food and global fashion chains are all on offer in this tiny Gulf state.

But not, it seems, full democracy. When it comes to politics, morals and lifestyles, Kuwaitis are becoming increasingly polarised between liberals and conservatives.