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Out of all the orthodox churches, the Greek one has been among those most opposed to closer relations with Roman Catholicism.
For moderates within Greek Orthodoxy, the Pope's visit is an opportunity to heal old wounds. But they face determined resistance.
The monks of Mount Athos, who regard themselves as the standard bearers of the Orthodox tradition, have led a revolt which has included a protest letter signed by a third of all clerics and demonstrations at which banners revealed sometimes alarming levels of hatred.
 The Pope has been called the "grotesque two-horned monster of Rome". |
This may be the ultra-conservative fringe of a church which is fighting to remain the cornerstone of Greek identity, but it reflects deep-rooted passions and prejudice.
Since the Great Schism in Christianity over theological differences in 1054, a series of events have widened the gap.
The Orthodox church's most bitter memories relate to the sacking of Constantinople in 1204 by Catholic Crusaders.
Soul poacher
More recently, conflict in the Balkans has, for many, redrawn the line dividing the Catholic West from the Orthodox East.
There is also the perception that the Vatican has sponsored the poaching of Orthodox souls.
All this has put pressure on the Orthodox hierarchy, which caved into the Greek Government and accepted the papal visit. But only grudgingly.
For an institution which not too long ago called on the Pope to renounce Catholicism and embrace the Orthodox faith, it is a step forward.
But the Greek trip doesn't look like opening an immediate door to a papal visit to Orthodox Russia as some optimists had hoped.
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