The stations that are open are very clean

"Finally we had a delay of almost two years," says Leonidas Kikiras. "But I don't complain, because to complete this project, a difficult project, in a difficult city, with a difficult people, like the Athenians, I think is an important accomplishment."

A major reason for the hold-up is blamed on Athens' classical heritage. Wherever there is digging, a rich haul of artefacts emerges. The artefacts are displayed in stations where the line is up and running.

In the Akropolis underground station, the statues on display are the ultimate in classical cool - one reason why commuters do not complain much about the limited length of the subway.

Businesses hit

For commuters used to coping with the rigours of the London Underground all is sweetness and light in this system. The carriages are spotless and the stations spick and span.

Greeks are very proud of their classical heritage

But above ground, subway construction has hit many small businesses. One cafe manager tells me excavation work outside has been going on for 10 years.

"We are down about 50 or 60% in our work," says Evangelos Arapkoules.

Next door to the cafe, subway workers unearth more potentially valuable ruins. It means added delays, but that is hardly surprising when the 21st century stumbles across the secrets of the ancients.