It is a little piece of America in a foreign land. Saturday morning and a high school cheerleading competition is under way for the 3,000 school students at the Yongsan army base, it could just as well be Omaha, Nebraska. The US army is moving to a site south of Seoul |
That is quite an achievement when you consider the base is bang in the centre of one of Asia's largest cities.
For 50 years this has been a self sufficient community with all the conveniences of home. Well stocked supermarkets and every brand of fast food known to man.
But outside the perimeter fence in the streets of Seoul, attitudes have changed.
The Americans are no longer welcome here, and the US Army has finally agreed to move its headquarters to a new site south of the city.
Independence
Jeffrey Jones of the American Chamber of Commerce has been in South Korea for 25 years. He said Koreans no longer feel they have to bow down to the United States.
 There are rumours that the number of troops will be reduced |
"Korea has basically complied with US requests and interests throughout its history since the Korean War and I think really for the first time we're seeing not only a private assertion of that independence but an open and public assertion of that independence, " he said.
Outside the base's gate, restaurateurs and shop owners worry about lost business when the move is complete in three years time.
But it is hard to find a passer-by who wants the Americans to stay. Young Koreans in particular are deeply suspicious of the US military presence.
"I know we've received a lot of help from the Americans in the past, but we've become too dependent on them and we let them do whatever they want," said one man.
"I think the United States is the biggest threat to our security. It exaggerates the threat from North Korea and creates unnecessary tension," another said.
 |  There is a real change in the younger generation... they believe that Korea must now basically rise up to its own interests  |
It is not just Army headquarters that is moving out, the second infantry division that guards the approaches to the capital is also to move south, out of range of North Korean artillery.
According to the US, this is part of a world-wide redeployment which will not affect its commitment to defend South Korea.
But there are persistent rumours that the number of troops on the peninsular will be reduced from the current figure of 37,000.
Anti-US feeling
Conservatives like Professor Lee Chung-min of Yonsei University believe the anti-American mood has raised hackles in Washington, with damaging consequences for South Korea's security.
"I believe there is a real change in the younger generation in particular, because they believe that Korea must now basically rise up to its own interests, must speak with a much more nationalistic voice, " he said.
"The problem is those very same people simply do not understand what then are your security alternatives. When the consequences begin to pile up, and they will, then they really have no answers."
Certainly many Americans were stunned by a wave of anti-US protests after two girls were accidentally crushed by an armoured vehicle 18 months ago.
"Certainly I would guess that most Americans felt a sense of betrayal. We have sacrificed, bled and died for this country, how can they betray us by these kinds of demonstrations, anti-US feelings?" said Jeffrey Jones.
" We still continue to protect this country."
The two governments insists they are still working well together. But analysts see and underlying tension and lack of trust as coming at a critical moment, as the region confronts the growing nuclear threat from North Korea.
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