More than 50 people had signed up for the trip, hoping to travel the 20km from Jinmen to the port of Xiamen, in China's Fujian province.

The two areas lie within sight of each other but have had no direct links since Taiwan split from China during a bloody civil war that ended in 1949.

Up until now Taiwanese tourists and investors wishing to travel to the mainland have had to make a long and roundabout trip via Hong Kong or Macau.

Taiwan's President, Chen Shui-bian, has decided to allow mainland travel in an attempt to improve relations with China.

'Not enough'

China's Communist government has played down the move, however, saying it does not go nearly far enough.

Beijing has said the move is a trivial one which simply decriminalises the trade between local fishermen that has been going on for years.

Taiwanese soldiers light candle in honour of island sea goddess

China continues to press for full direct links, as well as full political talks on reunification.

Yet in Taiwan the move has been seen as a symbolic first step in an area where, until the 1970s, the two sides frequently pounded each other with mortar fire.

With the introduction of this service Taiwanese authorities say up to 700 mainland residents will be able to visit Jinmen and Mazu at any one time.

Permission not granted

However, Chinese authorities have not given formal permission for this and they are unlikely to be impressed by Taiwan's insistence that only Taiwanese vessels can make the crossing.

Taiwan's powerful business lobby, which has invested tens of billions of dollars in the mainland, continues to press for the lifting of all restrictions on transport across the Taiwan Straits.

But Taiwan worries that such close ties would let its giant neighbour dominate the island.

And with China still deeply suspicious of the Taiwanese president, who once advocated outright independence from the mainland, it remains to be seen whether further progress will follow this initial move.

China has threatened to attack if Taiwan seeks independence or refuses indefinitely to discuss reunification.

A conflict could quickly draw in the United States, which does not recognise Taiwan's government but is obligated by US law to defend it against Chinese attack.