THIS WORLD After a Fashion A Tale of Two Turkeys Tx Date: 16th November 2006 10.00.00 Music 10.00.06 Narrator Istanbul, the cultural capital of Turkey, which stands at the crossroads between Europe and Asia, is fast becoming a new centre for international fashion. 10.00.16 Music 10.00.21 Narrator Deha Orhan is in charge of one of Turkey’s most successful lingerie brands. His fashions are influenced by the west and he embraces a secular lifestyle. 10.00.30 Music 10.00.34 Narrator Mustafa Karaduman runs an Islamic fashion house where business is booming. 10.00.38 Music 10.00.42 Narrator His designs are firmly based on religious principles and he takes his takes his cue from the East and Islam. 10.00.47 Music 10.00.50 Narrator Both men have important fashion shows coming up at a critical time in the development of their businesses. 10.00.54 Music 10.01.02 Narrator And both their collections for two thousand and six take their inspiration from the Ottoman Empire when Turkey was a great Imperial power. But the two men have very different visions of Turkey’s past and its future. 10.01.19 Music 10.01.19 Title Page AFTER A FASHION A Tale of Two Turkeys 10.01.25 Music 10.01.34 Narrator At thirty-three Deha’s been running a multi-million pound fashion business with a chain of high street stores and a thriving export operation for the past ten years. 10.01.43 Music 10.02.04 Narrator The company was founded and named by Deha’s father in the nineteen fifties and he took over as CEO when his Dad retired. 10.02.12 Deha Ten means soft skin in Turkish. It’s a good name actually. 10.02.22 Deha OK. These are the underwears of the Sultan Abdulhamid. The second Abdulhamid; he lives between eighteen forty-two and dies nineteen eighteen and these are made in Paris and this is all silk. 10.02.42 Interviewer If the Sultan was still alive today, do you think he’d still be buying his underwear in Paris? 10.02.47 Deha No! Of course not. We are here. 10.02.52 Narrator Turkey is now the third largest producer of lingerie in the world, after China and Hong Kong. And Ten is one of Turkey’s biggest brands. 10.03.07 Music 10.03.16 Narrator On the other side of town, Mustafa Karaduman runs his own highly successful fashion empire producing Islamic clothing. He believes God plays a central role in his success. 10.03.29 Mustafa Voice over It was my dream to own a car like this. Allah granted me this one so I bought it. 10.03.33 Music 10.03.40 Narrator Mustafa built his company from scratch. It also has a chain of high street stores and a booming wholesale business. 10.03.52 Mustafa Voice over Now we’re going to Tekbir Plaza, our main shop in Fatih. We have three stores in Fatih and each of them is among the largest and busiest shops there. 10.04.03 Music 10.04.12 Narrator Fatih is a religiously conservative area of Istanbul. Mustafa’s stores and others like them now dominate the high street here and attract thousands of fashion- conscious Muslim women. But a few shops still sell more westernised dress. 10.04.36 Mustafa Voice over These types of clothes used to be the most common in Turkey. When I came to Istanbul in nineteen sixty-nine it was the time of the mini skirt craze in this country. Ladies had to tug them down to hide their underwear! So when I started in the business in nineteen eighty-two I began with Islamic covering as an alternative fashion. 10.05.03 Mustafa Voice over ‘Tekbir’ was a good brand name to represent this idea. There isn’t an exact translation but it actually means ‘Allah U Akbar’, or ‘God is Great’. 10.05.19 Music 10.05.25 Narrator Although ninety-nine per cent of Turks are Muslim, Turkey is a secular state, which often seems closer to Europe than the Middle East. This is largely due to one man. 10.05.37 Music 10.05.43 Narrator After the fall of the Muslim Ottoman Empire in the early nineteen twenties, Mustafa Kemal or Ataturk, the father of the Turks, was determined that Turkey should become a more westernised country. 10.05.56 Music 10.05.58 Narrator He ruthlessly set about expunging Islam from every aspect of daily life. He replaced Arabic with the Latin alphabet and banned the veil and the fez. 10.06.10 Music 10.06.20 Narrator Deha is a direct beneficiary of Ataturk’s reforms. His products are influenced by fashions from the west and attract buyers from all over Europe as well as Turkey. 10.06.31 Deha So I’m showing now to my clients in Istanbul, so you can join us at two thirty. 10.06.37 Swedish client OK. Yeah, perfect! 10.06.41 Deha They are my clients from Sweden. New clients! 10.06.57 Deha Well you can sit here but take notes... 10.07.02 Swedish client I’m here because I’m looking for fashion lingerie and other clothes buying here in Turkey and selling in the Scandinavian market, especially in Sweden. 10.07.11 Music 10.07.27 Swedish client The lot of company right now is buying their fashion from China but I’m not very happy with the quality from China, the reason number one is the quality I’m looking for here in Turkey. 10.07.40 Music 10.07.54 Narrator For years Ten’s success has relied on volume sales of its more basic lines. But now their prices are being seriously undercut by cheap Chinese production. 10.08.08 Narrator Deha’s decided the only way to compete is to take his company upmarket. Now he’s looking for business partners in Europe. And is about to launch a new and very exclusive line of lingerie. 10.08.22 Deha These are the hangers, also, so you gonna hang the pyjamas and satins. You gonna sell only thirty pieces but they gonna be like two hundred dollars for a bra. It’s gonna be so high class but so unique, so chic. 10.08.41 Narrator The ‘Ten Limited’ collection has been designed by Deha’s sister Seba. 10.08.48 Seba I’m inspired by the women of Ottoman Empire. Those women were Sultan’s wives and they were all beautiful and intelligent. I used gold fabric, gold satin with printed net and we make this kind of skirt looking briefs and padded bra with all gold effects because the Ottoman Empire was full of gold and lurex and this charming gold, I want to bring that into my collection. 10.09.33 Interviewer Do you see a contradiction in manufacturing this kind of sexy lingerie in a Muslim country? 10.09.38 Seba No, it doesn’t change our business because also the women who are covered, they wear this. They’re our customers as well, I mean, because nobody sees inside, only their husbands. 10.09.55 Narrator The launch of Ten Limited is Deha’s most ambitious and risky venture to date. 10.10.01 Narrator It’ll be a critical test of his leadership of the company. 10.10.10 Narrator Turkey today remains a secular state. 10.10.12 Music 10.10.16 Narrator But Mustafa is part of a growing revival of interest in Islam, which has swept the country in recent years. Now there is increasing tension between religious and secular values. 10.10.29 Music 10.10.35 Narrator Nowhere is this more visible than in the arena of women’s fashion. The headscarf is still banned in schools, hospitals and government offices. But in spite of the ban more and more women are taking the veil. 10.10.53 Music 10.10.54 Mustafa Subtitle May I help you? 10.10.59 Narrator Many of them come to shop in Mustafa’s stores. 10.11.05 Narrator Today there is a family in who are on their way to Mecca and are looking for some suitable outfits. 10.11.11 Woman Subtitles That’s nice. Is this linen? 10.11.15 Saleswoman Subtitle No, but they are lightweight. 10.11.20 Mustafa Subtitle Welcome. 10.11.22 Man Subtitle Thank you. Mustafa Subtitle Where are you from? 10.11.24 Man Subtitle Malatya. 10.11.28 Saleswoman Subtitle It would be fine in one size up. 10.11.31 Woman Subtitle It’s tight. 10.11.34 Old Lady Subtitles It’s too tight. It’s not comfortable. 10.11.36 Mustafa Subtitle Give her a larger size. 10.11.44 Man Subtitle You’ve found the perfect model! 10.11.50 Woman Subtitle It’s a good fit. Old Lady Subtitle No it’s not! It’s dreadful! 10.11.59 Saleswoman Subtitle We have bigger sizes up there. 10.12.01 Old Lady Subtitle I’ve already looked there. 10.12.06 Mustafa Voice over She’s a little overweight and with the shorter height there just wasn’t anything suitable. 10.12.18 Narrator Like Deha’s new line of lingerie, the collection Mustafa’s launching at his two thousand and six fashion show also takes its inspiration from the Ottoman Empire. 10.12.37 Mustafa Voice over This is what we call the Ottoman Kaftan; a design which harks back to Ottoman style. 10.12.46 Mustafa Voice over There are others as well, for example this is an Ottoman style combined with today’s fashion. We’ve added trousers to give it another layer and brought the jacket down below the knee a little. In Ottoman times there actually was a style which went below the knee. We’ve combined this with today’s manufacturing techniques to create a contemporary design. 10.13.17 Narrator This year’s show is crucially important as Mustafa’s gambling on the boom in Islamic fashions continuing. He’s just invested hundreds of thousands in a new factory which will double his staff and his output. 10.13.41 Narrator To ensure maximum publicity, Mustafa has signed up one Turkey’s most famous models. Tugba Ozay. Tugba’s confirmed the booking through her modelling agent. 10.13.53 Tugba Ozay Hi, how are you? 10.13.56 Narrator But she sees herself as very much part of Turkey’s modern, secular culture. 10.14.03 Tugba Ozay Voice over This is who I am. I’m a very modern person, as you can see. 10.14.10 Music 10.14.15 Narrator Nisantisi is one of the smartest and most westernised neighbourhoods of Istanbul. There aren’t many headscarves on display here. 10.14.23 Music 10.14.49 Tugba Ozay I love Turkish people because they love me! 10.14.56 Narrator Today Tugba is shopping for clothes which are more to her own personal taste. 10.15.00 Music 10.15.04 Sales Assistant Subtitles We have a black dress down there. It’s a dress that Madonna wore. 10.15.15 Tugba Ozay Subtitles So I’m going to wear Madonna’s dress. Let’s see who looks better in it, Madonna or me! 10.15.34 Tugba Ozay This is Madonna’s dress; which one is better? Thank you! 10.15.45 Tugba Ozay Subtitles This is beautiful. Madonna’s dress. 10.15.51 Sales Assistant Subtitle Madonna - who is she anyway? 10.15.56 Tugba Ozay Subtitles I already asked them who looks better in this dress – of course me! 10.16.01 Sales Assistant Subtitle No question. 10.16.05 Tugba Ozay She’s paparazzi. 10.16.13 Music 10.16.21 Narrator But many women of the younger generation in Turkey are making very different choices about their lives. Hacer Serdar has worked in one of Mustafa’s three stores in Fatih high street, the Tekbir Centre, for nine months. 10.16.36 Music 10.16.39 Narrator She moved to Istanbul from the country. At twenty-one this is her first job and she chose it because it allows her to dress as she likes at work. 10.16.57 Hacer Voice over When I was very small I always imagined I’d be covered. It was my dream since childhood. 10.17.04 Narrator Hacer had an experience at age twelve which led to her decision to adopt Islamic dress. 10.17.14 Hacer Voice over I went on holiday with my family and while we were in the hotel having breakfast I saw a covered woman. I can’t describe how much I admired her look. It was a feeling inside. At that moment I liked that woman’s appearance so much that within half an hour I had covered my head and put on a long overcoat. 10.17.41 Narrator After nearly ten years of wearing Islamic clothing, Hacer feels uncomfortable without her headscarf in any male company, even at home. 10.17.55 Hacer Voice over For example I have a brother one year younger than me. I don’t feel comfortable without my headscarf with him sometimes, only with my mother and my closest girlfriends. 10.18.08 Music 10.18.14 Narrator Hacer’s friend Asiye, works in Mustafa’s main store. 10.18.18 Music 10.18.24 Narrator On wages of fifty pounds a week, they can’t afford to shop in Fatih’s high street. 10.18.29 Music 10.18.38 Narrator But they often spend their lunch break hunting for bargains in Fatih’s bazaar. 10.18.42 Music 10.18.59 Hacer Voice over Personally, I don’t like buying underwear from men because I find it embarrassing. I prefer to buy from women. That’s why there are usually a lot of sales women in the bazaar. 10.19.23 Hacer Subtitle Does it suit me? 10.19.26 Asiye Subtitle Oh, they look good! 10.19.31 Market seller Subtitle Come on girls! Come on girls! 10.19.38 Hacer Voice over These scarves are for dowries. 10.19.41 Asiye Subtitle Is your dowry ready? 10.19.42 Hacer Voice over Mine is. 10.19.44 Asiye Voice over Mine isn’t. I have everything I need. 10.19.50 Hacer Voice over Except someone to marry her! 10.19.55 Narrator Because of their conservative religious backgrounds there are restrictions on their social lives as well as what they can wear. 10.20.04 Interviewer Subtitle Did you ever have boyfriends? 10.20.09 Asiye Voice over Of course. How is it possible not to have a boyfriend? But I must say I don’t see him that much because of the restrictions by my family. While other girls see their boyfriends every day I can only see mine every fortnight. We mainly speak on the phone. The truth is I’d like to see him every day but it isn’t possible. 10.20.33 Hacer Voice over The truth is that I haven’t prepared a dowry for myself yet. I didn’t feel the need for it. Because my father died when I was very young, I’ve been busy looking after my family. I had to think more of my family than myself. That’s the real reason I haven’t prepared anything for myself yet. But I’m not worried about it. 10.20.52 Music 10.21.00 Narrator Whilst Mustafa has already cast his fashion show, Deha is still looking for the right models to launch his new collection. 10.21.08 Deha Which one? Who are you? 10.21.13 Finia Finia. 10.21.14 Deha Finia? Where are you from? 10.21.17 Finia I’m from Germany. 10.21.19 Deha Germany. 10.21.21 Narrator As most Turkish models are reluctant to do lingerie shows, he’s having to look further a field. 10.21.37 Deha Well, actually I’m checking the pictures because when a model cames, I mean comes, they usually look different, really different on the pictures, as you can see now. Sometimes they can be really ugly but then when you look on the pictures they have, they look really different. So that’s the most important thing for the shooting. She doesn’t have to be so beautiful but she has to give really nice pictures. 10.22.18 Deha OK ladies, come with me! All of you! 10.22.32 Deha I think this fits. Ok. Out! Out! No cameras here! 10.22.43 Deha Anybody has tattoos? No tattoos? OK. Thank you. Change. You have silicone? 10.22.49 Model No. 10.22.50 Deha No?! 10.22.51 Model No. 10.22.55 Deha Hi. 10.23.02 Agent Subtitle What did you think of her? 10.23.05 Deha Subtitle Kim? Too big. 10.23.08 Agent Too big? 10.23.09 Deha Too big. 10.23.11 Interviewer Who’s too big? 10.23.12 Deha Her boobs are too big. So difficult, yah. To find the right boobs are the most difficult thing. Yeah, you have the right boobs. 10.23.24 Music 10.23.31 Narrator With his new factory due to open soon, Mustafa needs to train and recruit new sales staff. 10.23.37 Music 10.23.40 Narrator As headscarves are banned in all public institutions he’s never short of well educated recruits. 10.23.49 Mustafa Subtitles Have you decided if you’re going to work here? 10.23.52 Nazan Subtitles I can’t come to Fatih. That’s what I came to tell you. 10.23.58 Elif Subtitles Uncle Mustafa, Nazan and I don’t want to work for anyone else! We know you by now. But my brother-in-law in the council is insisting we should go and work there. But we like this environment and we know you. It’s a place you can trust. 10.24.13 Mustafa Subtitles Why would you choose us when you could work for the council? 10.24.17 Elif Subtitles Of course in the council, there’s the headscarf problem. Naturally it would promise a better future but we still prefer it here. Hopefully it will work out. 10.24.29 Nazan Subtitles Do you have any vacancies at Bagcilar? 10.24.33 Mustafa Subtitles I’ll talk to the personnel manager. When I last spoke to him there was a vacancy at Bagcilar if they haven’t filled it yet. Let’s see! 10.24.44 Nazan Subtitle God willing. 10.24.46 Music 10.25.10 Narrator Deha’s wealth brings its rewards and when he’s not working he likes to spend time with his sister and chief fashion designer Seba, his young wife, Jansu, and his ‘Mistress’. 10.25.20 Music 10.25.23 Deha My wife, she finds the name. I was thinking about the name for this boat and I was thinking stupid things and she finds out that you are spending more time and so much money on this boat so that should be your mistress. This is kind of my, my really baby and I’m really in love with her. 10.25.53 Interviewer And how’s married life? 10.25.55 Deha Tough, of course. She’s here but I can’t talk about it too much and she’s gonna see this right? It is, it is sometimes difficult, of course, but most of the time it is good, so good. 10.26.17 Narrator Like the vast majority of Turks, Deha is Muslim but he doesn’t see any contradiction between his western lifestyle and his religious beliefs. 10.26.32 Deha We are all Muslims but I’m not praying five times a day. I’m fasting during Ramadan. I’m a religious person, of course I believe in God but I’m smoking, I’m having alcohol but I’m not cheating on anybody or I’m not stealing anything or I’m not lying to other people or I’m not hurting anybody and these are the main things about Islam. 10.27.20 Narrator After several glasses of raki, Deha turns his hand to fortune telling. 10.27.29 Deha I can see the Limited collection now here. 10.27.33 Man at table It’s all a lie! 10.27.39 Interviewer What’s happening with the Limited collection? 10.27.40 Deha Limited’s gonna explode, like you see here, like a volcanie! And it’s gonna blow up. 10.27.47 Man at table Limited’s going to be a world hit 10.27.48 Deha Yeah. 10.27.50 Man at table You see Turkey is in the European Community there? 10.27.53 Deha Ah, let me check that, hang on. Well, in twenty years we are, I think! 10.28.01 Music 10.28.06 Narrator On the way home Deha and his party decide to stop for a drink at Su, an Island club on the Bosphorous, catering to Istanbul’s wealthy, secular elite. 10.28.16 Music 10.28.50 Narrator If Turkey does eventually join the EU and turns more towards the west, clubs like this could become more commonplace. 10.29.01 Music 10.29.04 Narrator But if it becomes more conservatively Islamic and turns towards the east such clubs could soon disappear. The ban on the veil was first introduced in the hopes of bringing Turkey closer to the west. Years later it was relaxed as it was no longer necessary. 10.29.22 Music 10.29.25 Narrator But with the revival of Islam in the past decade the government reintroduced the ban. So hot an issue has this become that it has even led to the murder of a judge by a Muslim extremist. And it’s had direct repercussions from Mustafa’s own family. 10.29.44 Music 10.29.48 Mustafa Voice over One of my daughters was in the tenth grade when the headscarf ban came in. I asked her what she would like to do. She said she didn’t want to go to school because she didn’t want to remove her headscarf. So she left school and had to get married. I felt sad because she was very successful at school. Even her teachers wanted her to continue her studies. But it’s not just about it being God’s will to wear the headscarf; it’s also about her following her own beliefs. 10.30.21 Narrator Mustafa’s daughter, Hatice, now has a five year old daughter of her own. 10.30.52 Hatice Voice over I was very sad when I had to leave school because of the headscarf as I wanted to become a doctor and do something for humanity. But the thing that upset me most was that something as natural and pure as wearing the headscarf was being politicised and seen ideologically. This was the thing which most upset me. 10.31.25 Hatice Voice over I really want my daughter to be a doctor or maybe a teacher. I hope that things will become normal by then. I use the word ‘normal’ because ‘normal’ is people respecting your cultural traditions and your freedom of religion. 10.31.53 Music 10.32.00 Narrator Even though Tugba has agreed to appear in Mustafa’s upcoming fashion show, she’s on the opposite side of the political divide about the headscarf and even supports the ban. 10.31.10 Music 10.31.14 Tugba Voice over We all have our own religious beliefs and that is something between Allah and man. Just as it’s not appropriate to wear too short a skirt or trousers that are too tight when you go to school, you know wherever you go certain places have certain codes of conduct. I believe that we should not have headscarves in official places. 10.32.43 Tugba I’m tired! 10.32.46 Narrator This evening Tugba’s going to be taking part in a fashion show at a private university in Istanbul. 10.32.55 Narrator Ataturk’s vision of a modern secular state is still shared by most of Turkey’s intelligentsia even though the last election bought a mildly Islamic government to power. 10.33.06 Applause 10.33.11 Tugba Subtitles Kadir - find my hairdresser. Quickly! 10.33.13 Music 10.33.16 Narrator Tugba herself is a member of the youth wing of a secular, republican party based on Ataturk’s vision. 10.33.23 Music 10.33.29 Narrator Tonight’s show is certainly not making any concessions to Islamic notions of modesty. 10. 33.33 Tugba Subtitle Wow! And God created man! 10. 33.40 Narrator Or openly alternative lifestyles. 10. 33.45 Erez Subtitles We are doing this fashion show from the Roman Empire. All these fashions are in the style of Troy, the movie. And I’m a choreographer and I do my best choreographing in this show. Inside are many dancers and my best model, Tugba, is here. And I hope everybody likes it. 10.34.09 Music 10.34.40 Erez What’s wrong with the dress? 10.34.42 Tugba What? 10.34.43 Erez What’s wrong with the dress? 10.34.44 Tugba Very dangerous…because… But this is show. Fashion show! 10.34.56 Music 10.35.12 Erez Subtitles Why did you send her on? This is the wrong music. Jan, come here! You’re not following the show! They should have entered later! 10.35.26 Jan Subtitles Who are you shouting at? I told them how to do it. Why are you shouting at me? 10.35.32 Erez Subtitle Why aren’t you following? 10.35.33 Jan Subtitles I told them! They meet in the middle and then the others will enter. Why are you shouting me? 10.35.39 Erez Subtitle Why are you shouting? 10.35.40 Jan Subtitles I didn’t do anything wrong. They got it wrong. 10.35.43 Erez Subtitles Now we’ve lost two clips of music… 10.35.52 Tugba No problem! 10.35.54 Erez Subtitles I have never had such a disaster in a show of mine before! Why did you let them go on stage with that music? I should be the one to tell them when to go? Now we’ve lost two music clips! 10.36.09 Music 10.36.41 Tugba Very hard! 10.36.47 Tugba Subtitles I had to stand up straight. Straight as a board. And I was trying to cover my breasts! 10.36.56 Music 10.37.05 Narrator The hottest trend in Islamic fashion in Turkey at the moment is the Hasema, swimwear designed to keep more than just a woman’s breasts covered. 10.37.13 Music 10.37.22 Narrator Although Mustafa sells the Hasema in his stores he refuses to manufacture it himself because he’s worried that as it doesn’t have two layers it could be seen as undergarment. 10.37.38 Mustafa Voice over If we had made this for women to wear in a mixed environment it could be sinful because it isn’t exactly an outer garment. In the Koran the Prophet says to his wives and other women from among the believers; when you go outside you should wear an extra covering. 10.37.56 Narrator On their day off, Hacer and Asiye are planning a trip to the beach. But first they want to pick out some appropriate swimwear from the store. 10.38.05 Hacer Subtitle What colours were you thinking of? 10.38.07 Asiye Subtitles Light colours. I prefer blue. 10.38.22 Narrator Asiye hasn’t been a convert to Islamic fashion quite as long as Hacer and although Hacer has worn the Hasema before, this is the first time Asiye has ever tried one on. She’s not quite sure how to fit it. 10.38.38 Hacer Subtitle How do I look, my dearest Asiye? 10.38.42 Asiye Subtitles It looks really beautiful. It suits you. 10.38.58 Hacer Subtitles This is the way you fit it. Then you put this inside. 10.39.13 Hacer Subtitle You need a degree for this! 10.39.16 Music 10.39.24 Narrator The nearest beach is at Sile, which can only be reached from the Asian side of Istanbul. 10.39.31 Hacer Subtitles Have you ever been there? I went swimming there once. 10.39.39 Asiye Subtitle Me too, and I wore a bikini. 10.39.43 Hacer Subtitle Oh, well done you! 10.39.45 Asiye Subtitles I didn’t have Islamic swimwear then. 10.39.47 Hacer Subtitle Were there any men there? Asiye Subtitle No. 10.39.49 Hacer Subtitle Well that’s OK then. Asiye Subtitle Only women. 10.39.51 Hacer Subtitle Then it’s OK to wear a bikini. 10.39.53 Music 10.40.03 Narrator Asiye is wearing the Hasema in public for the first time. 10.40.07 Music 10.40.27 Narrator Some Muslim groups have campaigned to have separate beaches for men and women. But because of Turkey’s secular constitution this has been blocked by local councils. Now Islamic swimwear or Hasemas have made it easier for devout Muslim women like Hacer and Asiye to enjoy Turkey’s public beaches. 10.40.49 Music 10.40.53 Asiye Voice over For women like us this is a great comfort. Before Hasemas we tried not to go in the water. If we swam on public beaches we had to do it with our clothes on. 10.41.07 Hacer Voice over I wore a Hasema for the first time last year on a public beach with my family and I loved it. When you come out of the water it doesn’t cling to your body and it dries quickly. Hasemas are the perfect swimwear for women who want to be covered. But even in a Hasema I would prefer to swim somewhere without any men. 10.41.40 Narrator With the day of the launch looming, Deha’s finally found the models he wants to use for the photo shoot to publicise his new collection. They’re mostly Brazilian and rather more used to wearing skimpy clothes in public. 10.41.55 Narrator The quality of today’s pictures will be crucially important to the success of the launch. But he needs to make the most of the light. 10.42.02 Deha We are now going to Bosphorous for the first shooting of Ten Limited. And now we just started the make-up and hair while we are sailing, I hope they’re going to finish everything and when we are there we gonna just start immediately. 10.42.25 Music 10.43.00 Narrator As Ten Limited is inspired by the Ottoman Empire, Deha’s decided to shoot on a replica Sultan’s barge in front of the Dolmabache Palace in Istanbul. Dolmabache was the last of the great Ottoman Palaces and once the residence of Sultan Abdulhamid the second, whose Parisian silk knickers now proudly hang on Deha’s office wall. 10.43.24 Music 10.43.40 Narrator But there’s a problem with Deha’s dinghy and he’s forced to improvise. 10.43.57 Deha Be careful. OK. 10.44.00 Model Thank you. 10.44.07 Deha What is this? 10.44.09 Model I don’t know. 10.44.11 Deha Subtitles I think I’m losing my mind here. I told you all the girls should be wearing the same thing. Look, one’s wearing this and the other one’s wearing that. 10.44.35 Deha You have to go back and change, you two and tell them this colour ok. 10.44.40 Model OK, for both of us? 10.44.42 Deha For both of you and also… 10.45.05 Interviewer How’s it going so far, Deha? 10.44.06 Deha Not good. Not good. 10.45.09 Interviewer Why not? 10.45.11 Deha I don’t know, this is, I’m a little bit nervous, I think. 10.45.24 Deha Ah, there is a toilet here! 10.45.26 Deha Subtitle Oh graceful God! This is about the eighth time I’ve hit my head on this thing! 10.45.33 Music 10.45.48 Deha Now we have the clouds! 10.45.49 Music 10.45.54 Narrator Unusually for the CEO of a big company Deha is also the photographer. 10.46.01 Deha OK Ladies! Let’s go! 10.46.04 Narrator He’s decided to use six models at the same time. It’s a very ambitious plan. 10.46.14 Music 10.46.56 Deha This is good, ok. But the only problem is because of, you’re like six girls, and here, you’re beautiful. She’s ok, she’s ok, but she’s not. So, you really have to be grouped together otherwise this thing won’t work. With six of them, well to catch the best, you know, look of the six girls is kind of impossible, looks like that but let me see. 10.47.34 Music 10.47.48 Narrator The day of the God is Great Fashion Show has finally arrived. Although this is the fourteenth year in which Mustafa’s staged such a show, this one is particularly important as it comes on the eve of his opening the new factory and doubling his production. 10.48.06 Music 10.48.09 Narrator But he’s not entirely happy about having to use secular models, including Tugba, for his show. 10.48.20 Mustafa Voice over The kind of model we would like in this sector doesn’t really exist in Turkey. We would like to have a community of Islamic models but since there is no such thing at the moment and we only have shows once a year we have no chance to set up a specialised agency, we have to work with whoever’s available. We would prefer it if their private lives were proper and in compliance with Turkish traditions and customs. Unfortunately that’s not the case. 10.48.58 Music 10.49.10 Narrator Tonight they have twenty models and will be showing a hundred and eighty different designs. Rehearsals have been underway for hours. But it’s not only having to use secular models that Mustafa and his brother are unhappy about. 10.49.26 Music 10.49.29 Mustafa Subtitles Since the call to prayer is at 8:00, we can start the show at 8;30. 10.49.33 Man Subtitles We don’t have space for 2,000 people to pray. 10.49.35 Mustafa Subtitles It might not be 2,000. Can we at least have a carpet to spread in a courtyard? 10.49.41 Man Subtitles We can take a look around. We don’t have a courtyard but we do have a cocktail lounge. When will we finish serving cocktails? 10.49.53 Woman Subtitle About 8:00, or say 7:45. 10.50.00 Man Subtitle So it will be over by eight. 10.50.02 Mustafa Subtitles At 8 we’ll have the call to prayer and the show will start when it’s finished. 10.50.05 Man Subtitles We can’t start the show at prayer time. 10.50.15 Music 10.50.22 Narrator Deha is also about to launch his new collection. 10.50.25 Music 10.50.31 Narrator In the end the pictures turned out better than he thought. 10.50.34 Music 10.50.40 Narrator In a couple of hours his most important clients in Istanbul will be arriving. And he and his sister Seba will get their first indication as to whether the collection, and the strategy of going upmarket, is going to be a success or a failure. 10.50.59 Deha This is something new for us because this is the most expensive collection we ever did. Now we are going to show this to our clients. This is the first show, so we’ll see their reaction because the price range is completely different than whatever we did until now, so I don’t know what they are going to say, so that’s why it is really important for us. 10.51.29 Music 10.51.44 Narrator There’s an even better turn out of press than Mustafa had hoped for and it’s just what he needs as he plans the next phase of his big business expansion. 10.51.52 Music 10.51.59 Narrator He chooses to open his show with his new Ottoman inspired designs and Tugba, his star attraction. 10.52.05 Music 10.52.31 Announcer Subtitle Tugba Ozay! 10.52.33 Narrator The God Is Great collection even features some Ottoman inspired wedding gowns. 10.52.41 Announcer Subtitles Turn your back and throw it! One! Two! Three! 10.52.55 Interviewer Subtitle Which part of the show did you like most? 10.53.00 Mustafa Subtitles The Ottoman fashions in the early part of the show. I think the combination of Ottoman style with today’s fashions is a really nice form of design. 10.53.11 Interviewer Subtitles The colours and designs are very lively. Is this a sign you are extending your market? 10.53.20 Mustafa Subtitles Eventually, yes. When we begin production in our 17,000 square metre factory, we will inevitably extend our market. 10.53.33 Narrator Hiring Tugba to star in his show has paid off but there remains a wide gulf between the two, both in their lifestyles and their political views. 10.53.53 Tugba Voice over I’m a professional model so I present the dresses just as I always do. Also wearing these clothes, at least there is no chance of anything popping out unexpectedly! That’s why I was really relaxed this time. This is my style. Turkey is a Muslim country but it is not ruled by Sharia and it never will be. Turkey is a secular, modern and democratic country where everyone can practice their beliefs freely. 10.54.29 Deha Subtitles In every range you’ll see three or four items. 10.54.36 Narrator For Deha, this is the moment of truth. 10.54.40 Deha Subtitles They have bras, panties, bodices and slips. 10.54.46 Buyer Subtitle These are the Ten label, right? 10.54.48 Deha Subtitle No, these are “ Ten Limited”. 10.54.55 Deha Subtitles Now, like I said they’re all made from the finest materials – the best lace, satin and accessories. Everything has been made to the highest standard. 10.55.13 Music 10.55.54 Narrator But these are some of the most hard nosed fashion buyers in Turkey and they’re not easily convinced. 10.56.10 Buyer Subtitles The panties are 10 out of 10 but it’s the vest! 10.56.13 Deha Subtitles You don’t like the vest? The bottom part? 10.56.18 Buyer Subtitles It’s very plain. It’s an excellent design but the bottom part should come down a bit more. The panties are excellent, that part is excellent, it’s only this part here. This one hangs beautifully. The bra and panties go together very well. This vest is nice too – it’s just the lower part. In my opinion it spoils an excellent look. 10.57.04 Deha Subtitle Fine, we’ll look at it. 10.57.11 Deha At the beginning I was scared of the prices because these products are a little bit higher than what we were producing before. But nobody has had any, you know, reaction about the prices. They weren’t expecting something like that, I think. And then when they see it, they’re a little bit confused but I think they like it. 10.57.39 Narrator In the end Deha received fewer orders than he had hoped for from his buyers in Istanbul. It’s still unclear whether his strategy of going upmarket will succeed or fail. 10.57.57 Narrator Mustafa’s new factory is due to open later this year. The expansion of his fashion empire is well underway. 10.58.05 Music 10.58.13 Narrator As Turkey prepares to formally become part of Europe, the tension between its modern, secular culture and its Muslim heritage is increasing. 10.58.22 Music 10.58.27 Narrator Ironically the closer Turks get to the west, the more many of them are turning back towards the east and Islam. 10.58.37 End music Credits 10.58.41 Camera BRIAN GREEN Dubbing Mixer GREG GETTENS Colourist SIMON ASTBURY Online Editor BOYD NAGLE Production Co-ordinators EMMA HILL JENNY JARVIS Production Manager JANE WILLEY Unit Manager SUSAN CRIGHTON Film Research BARRY PURKIS Assistant Producer AGNES TEEK Picture Editor TONY ROBINSON Series Producer LOUISE NORMAN Produced and Directed by DOMINIC OZANNE 10.58.43 Voice over For more information on tonight’s programme or to view it again you can visit our web site on bbc dot co dot uk forward slash this world. If you’d like to be reminded about upcoming This World programmes, text ‘This World’ to 81010 to receive our free text alert service. 10.58.48 bbc.co.uk/thisworld Text THISWORLD to 81010 Your initial text to us costs no more than 15p 10.59.03 thisworld Editor KAREN O’CONNOR BBC © BBC MMVI 10.59.06 End BBC This World: After a Fashion; A Tale of Two Turkeys 1 1