The nursery rhyme was true of its day. Popular past Christmas delicacies included geese, bustard and cockerel while the more wealthy dined out on swan, pheasant, peacock and roasted boar's head.

But, according to the British Turkey Information Service, for up to 87% of households, Christmas just would not be Christmas without a roast turkey on the table.

Origins of a lasting tradition

Stories abound on how the first turkey landed in Britain.

Some say that six birds brought into the country by Yorkshireman William Strickland in 1526 were the first. He sold the birds which he got from American Indian traders on his travels for tuppence each in Bristol.

Another story goes that European explorers discovered the birds in Northern America around the time of Columbus and the Pilgrim Fathers.

A few were sent back to Europe and became a popular Christmas dish by about 1650. King George II was said to have kept about 3000 turkeys in the grounds of Richmond park to feed to friends at Christmas.

Yet another version of the arrival of turkey is that an officer of the sixteenth century explorer, Sebastian Cabot, introduced them to Europe on a return journey from the New World.

Fit for the pan

Whatever their origin, around 11 million birds will be plucked and stuffed for the roasting pan this year.

The vast majority are conventionally farmed but around 100,000 of them will be farm fresh turkeys which are never frozen, dry plucked and hung to mature for up to 14 days.

The Golden Fresh Turkey Association which represents over 40 producers, says other differences with their birds is that they are grown slowly to full maturity on a special diet with no antibiotics or growth additives.

Whether you are buying fresh or fozen, the BBC Good Food Magazine gives some pointers to people on the look out for a Christmas bird:

• Check that the bird has a good plump breast
• Ensure that packaging is intact and if it is from the freezer, make sure it is completely frozen.
• A turkey is only as good as its feed
• A smooth white skin is not necessarily an indication of good quality.

Choosing what sort to buy may give you a headache. But cooking it wrong will definitely give you a stomach ache.

The Ministry of Agriculture, Fisheries and Food has issued a seasonal warning about the dangers of mistreating your bird.

They say:

• Take chilled and frozen food home quickly and put in the freezer at once.
• Overloading fridges makes them less efficient.
• Prepare and store raw and cooked food separately. Keep hot foods hot and cold foods cold.
• Make sure frozen food is thoroughly thawed before cooking, and completely cooked before eating.
• Wash work tops and utensils between handling food which is to be cooked and food which is not.